Oil is good. Have not checked transfer case but previous owner changed lube at about 26,000 miles. Bike now has 28,000 miles. Note: Seemed to start making noise after warming up
SOURCE: too much oil in engine
The cutting out is just a coincidence. Go with the correct amount of oil. The piston is splash lubricated. Too much oil kills the splash and the cylinder gets poor lubrication. If your model has a carb, ( as opposed to fuel injection ), then clean the carb and air filter then put in a new stock NGK spark plug. This should take care of the problem.
Please rate this solution. Thanks niknak!
SOURCE: Yamaha TW 200 starts but won't run.
If the bike has sat for a long period of time without being run - the gas that is sitting in the carb(s) will shellac.. Then the carb(s) would need to be cleaned and "rebuilt"..
SOURCE: What do I need to do to change spark plugs on a
Some basic rules I've learned and all of 20 minutes out of you life. People complain about valve noises or sluggish throttle response, well a crisp set of plugs firing does a lot to resolve these issues and for only $10 (standard plugs) is the cheapest performance mod going.
1) Replace your plugs annually (or at a minumum follow schedule of rear tire replacement) regardless of amount miles.
2) Plain and simple. Don't waste money on iridium because of #1 they spark the same it's just the tips that are suppposed to last longer.
3) Full removal of the tank is not needed but you will need to move it out of the way. Remove seat, remove center speedo and disconnect connectors, remove tank bolts, disconnect vent tube at the front portion of tank, lay a towel across the frame where seat normally goes, lift tank and turn tank sideways it will rest there without removing gas lines underneath, stock air box removal is not needed (BAK is even better for access), not certain what they mean by rider's seat bracket (at the back of the seat?) but obviously this is not needed either. There are wires zip tied to the frame that might need to be pushed out of the way or carefully cut the zip ties and just add new ones when done. (This just allows better access to get to the spark plug on right rear cylinder.)
4) A long screwdriver with small hose on end helps retrieve and reinstall plug on the front cylinder (unless you have very long fingers)
5) Go to auto parts store and purchase a socket with universal swivel for proper angle to losen or tighten plugs
6) A small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads is never a bad thing unless you use too much or it smears across the tips which would probably burn off anyway but that's just sloppy mechanics. (You want to be a sloppy hack like that, well you're outta the club... Go ride another brand.)
7) Use your hand never the socket to start the threads on the new plug. Place new plug in hole near cylinder and spin in reverse to align the threads then go in normal direction. If it does not feel correct at the start - never force it.
8) Do not over torque the spark plugs when tightening.
9) When reconnecting coil wires make certain you press down enough for a positive click to ensure proper connection.
10) Put tank and seat back in place and prepare for the response "why did I wait so long..." on the first ride...
Hope that helps.
SOURCE: need procedure for changing oil on stratoliner
The proper instructions are on pages 6-10 thru 6-12 of the owners manaul. If you don not have a copy you can view one here.
https://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/service/viewmanual.aspx?ls=star&yr=2006&lid=2&mid=1191
Here is a list of oil filters which will fit the 'liners, besides the OEM filter:
This info was on the forum some time back, filters for Liners:
The 14612 is the short filter. The longer one, which also fits the Liner, is the 14610 model (in case it matters).
The Wal-Mart ST 6607 is a little smaller than the stock filter and the 7317 is maybe a half inch longer. Both will work fine.
You will want to change the crush washers on the plugs.
The crush washers can be obtained at your nearest Yamaha dealer, or similar washers can be obtained at Advanced Auto. The size is 1/2 (or M14) called oversize, crush washers.
Oil-tite part #65310
They come in a 3 pack.
377 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×