SOURCE: klx 110 2006 stalls when choke is pushed in
i'd say the carb is gummed up especially the pilot jet (#16158) in this pic of the USA carb. may have to remove the carb & bowl and then remove the pilot jet (w/ flat head screw driver) and clean out the tiny holes.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/atlanticcycleandpower/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiDB.asp?Type=18&A=39&B=17&Action=O
-OR-
the carb slide is installed backwards (turned 180 degrees). its #16025 in the pic. i've done this before on my daughter's XR70 and Z50. you'll know if its this when you move the choke lever, RPMs increase and decrease.
hope this worked for you and was fast enough.
SOURCE: Kawasaki Vulcan VN400 carb diaphragm broken
If you are really stapped on cash napa auto parts has some heavy duty rubber spray. Just spray a thin layer over both sides of the diaphragm to repair any holes/tears and let dry overnight. My diaphragm was going to cost over $110 for one. It will still have full function and be even stronger than stock!
SOURCE: stalling when starting
if after the two mins ur putting the choke back in and the bike dies, it could be that your needing to adjust the idle speed.
it might just be set on the lower limit so that when ur bike isnt fully warmed up it struggles.
SOURCE: Carb needs cleaning
Hey this link might help, lots of pictures in case its your first time. http://www.kawiforums.com/zzr600-zx-6r-old-school/104220-cleaning-carbs-your-old-school-6r-complete-writeup-w-pics.html
SOURCE: Keihin CVK-D36 carbs on a 20 yr old ZZR 600
It sounds like your bike has been sitting in storage for an extended period of time (a year or more) - and the carburetors are plugged up. If this is the case, they will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned out.
If it hasn't been sitting (and the carbs aren't plugged up) then check that all of the normal tune-up items have been performed, especially valve adjustment, oil and filters, spark plugs, etc. If this fails to produce positive results, perform a compression check on the engine. Each cylinder must be able to produce at least 140 psi of compression in order to run and idle properly.
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I found the problem. Each time the engine didn't start the
float needle was not seating properly in the seat, but never did the carburetor
flood enough to be visible or have the smell of gas. Apparently the intake manifold
feeding the cylinders would fill with fuel. When the engine was cranked it
would fire properly, then immediately flood from the fuel standing in the intake
manifold and immediately die. Apparently the carburetor needs the air filter
installed to overcome a lean condition when it's off. This indicates to me
there is a lot of engine power to be gained by having a free flowing air intake
system, along with the proper carburetor jetting.
Thanks for your input on the problem.
Thanks again Ge
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