Car wont start 1996

SOURCE: 1996 mazda mx6 ls cranks but won't start

you may need to run a wire from a keyed ignition source that has power while cranking and running to the fuel pump relay and bypass the pcm to test wether it will run, if it runs put a more permanent wire in place.Not too sure what tests youve done but it seems that fuel is what your focusing on so a quick test is too spray engine start up the intake tube to see if the engine trys to run if it does it eliminates a lot of other potential reasons for a no start condition.Also try squeezing the fuel return line to see if the added pressure will try to make engine run.Could be time to replace fuel pump etc anyway let me know how it goes good luck with it

SOURCE: My 1994 suburban engine stops. No fuel, no MIL light.

I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.

Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.

Juan Rivera

• 172 Answers
• Posted on Apr 01, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 2002 chevy blazer 4.3L that wont start

are you using the original key ?? sounds wear but in the key switch there is a sensor that detects if the right key is in use otherwise it will kill the power to the fuel pump or it can be a fuse look under the left rear passanger seat there is another set of fuses and the other set of fuses are on the driver side near the door and there is another set of fuses and relays inside the hook next to the battery

SOURCE: No fuel or power to fuel pump.

If the relay is not getting ground signal to turn on then it sounds like a problem with the ECU this is fed from there. Commonly dry solder joints inside the ECU can cause this problem, they have a tendency to crack around the transistors and heavier load components and also components that are subject to mechanical vibration. He said that the fuel pump relay is located in the kick panel and the ECU is next to this. Id take out the ECU and remove the main circuit board and examine for dry solder joints. If you don't know what they look like its somthing like this http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/dry-joint_small.jpg

Hope this helps

SOURCE: 2001 jeep cherokee sport 6 cyl 4 wdr cranks want start

If the data link is not talking to the computer check your ground at the computer and at the data link connector to see if the computer is even alive ground pin 3 on DLC with the key off then turn key to the run position if it flashes the check engine codes record them, if no engine light, does the engine light come on when you turn the key on then go off? if not, check fuses if not check power for pin on computer, if it has power you have a bad computer. But TEST THE GROUNDS IT IS THE BIGGEST FAILURE For these rigs or any manufacture. check that you have power also at the DLC too. if not you need a digital ohm meter and a subscription to http:///.www.alldatadiy.com and start reading the campaigns on that vechile for computer and trouble tree for dead DLC and computer. I don't have that subscription or I could tell you more where to look, if you need anymore help let me know. Also if the crank sensor could cause it not to run the fuel pump but so can the cam sensor. You need to find out if the computer gets it's pulse for the pump at the computer if it does then you need to test them both. There are three wires a ground a colored power wire and a wire to go to the computer you can test these sensors with a meter to see if there is a pulse to each. sometimes the fuel pump gets it's signal from the coil pack so it's important to have the subscription, you can do a search for each item and test them as needed and has a wiring diagram.