Question about 1998 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja
Kawasaki zx6r g1 1998 it is ticking over ok, when I ride it, first gear will rev to around 8k but then when I put it into 2nd or above, it won't rev past around 4k, or speed won't exceed 40mph or so, it is showing signs of wanting to cut out, so I am having to drop it down a gear or two just to keep it alive, @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1998 1999 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual ZX600 G1 H1 Moto Data Project
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on May 29, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kawasaki gpz 1000 rx 1987 model
Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.
Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.
This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.
Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.
The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.
Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
it sounds like you need to richen up your system. are you sure you have the clip in the right position. 4th from top or 4th from bottom? if it's in the correct position, try adjusting you mixture screw to allow for either more fuel or less air.
Posted on May 18, 2010
SOURCE: zx6r erratic throttle
Just check on your air ducts. When the bike is staionery it will idle rev and even run well on the dyno, but on the open road the airducts must be in and instadled or mounted correctly
Posted on Jun 16, 2010
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