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1996 Kawasaki KX60 how to remove the crankshaft

I'm trying to replace the crank in a 1996 kx60, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the magneto off the bike. Have all of the bolts out of the left side, have the nut off the magneto and have a gear puller on it, but it won't budge. Is there a trick to getting this off? Is there some sort of lock washer or something in there? The engine is off the bike and on the bench. Once I get that off, I presume that I should be able to tap the casing with a rubber mallet to get it to split. Appreciate any suggestions. @

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  • kawasaki Master
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Hi, Scott_towers for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Oct 29, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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DJ_MAX1369
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SOURCE: 97 fatboy starter engages but will not stay engaged.

I would check the starter clutch its self first. It is a one way clutch so if you remove the starter and disassemble it to the starter clutch and hold the starter clutch in one hand and use your other hand to turn the starter clutch gear, it should only turn in one direction.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

bunnydawg
  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: KX60 2001,losing oil from crank casing and won't start.

it could start without oil..... but the amount of damage you would likely do to it makes it very unwise. if all the oil leaked out there was oil in it when it was started before. if i'm not mistaken that case is aluminum. if you can find someone that does tig welding (i think it's tig for aluminum).... they could probably weld that crack without taking the motor apart..... just a thought.

please take a moment to rate this solution.. thanks

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: Harley hard starting problem

highley doubtful on exaust leak causing problem first make sure your battery is up to the task do a load test if that looks good do a draw test on the starter if not there it starts to get ugly that motor came with a torrington bearing on the sprocketshaft as they wear they develop crankshaft runout not a real big issue till your running straight gears on the camshafts which only tolerates .001 runout you could be binding there

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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The pedals on my Nordic Track SL700 turn completely free. I think I need to replace the crank assembly but cannot seem to get into it. Is this bike worth the price of a new crank assembly part?


Dear Sir:

Please do the following:

Use aflat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place.This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate theflywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs.If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricateboth bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed,proceed to the next step.2
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Hi, Opie1jodi for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1 Answer

1989 Kawasaki KX60 cuts out while riding


Hi, Earle and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
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18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
20. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
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1 Answer

Remove magneto on crank


You will need a special puller. The tool is about $20 to $30 after market or $70 at the dealers parts department. Call around to find one. It will last a lifetime and will work on nearly all bikes, Honda, Yamaha, etc.. You just thread the tool into the magneto threads then turn the puller bolt very tight to put pressure on the end of the crankshaft then smack the puller bolt with a hammer. BINGO, the mag is free. Please rate my answer.

Mar 15, 2011 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

1 Answer

Bike has no power but will still crash start bike will also only go if the lights are on when lights are off bike have poor idel and will not accelerate i was thinking maybe ignition coil


It is more likely to be either the Regulatoer/Rectifier or the Magneto coils or pick-up. Your magneto sends a series of pulses at various revs. This is changed and evened out by the Reg/Rec. First step is to check quality of all connections from magneto upwards to all relevent components. IE; ignition coil, CDI unit, Reg/Rec, battery (if applic.). If the bike normally runs with a city light or running light when ignition is on, then check all switches for crossed, pinched or broken wire connections, especially around headstem area. Ideally, a service manual with relevent ohm resistance figures and a multi-meter should lead you to the problem. CDI units, Reg/Rec, Magneto Coils and pulse coils are very expensive as are ignition coils. They will all be affected eventually if the problem is not identified and fixed. Goodluck.

Nov 25, 2010 | Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S Motorcycles

2 Answers

KX60 2001,losing oil from crank casing and won't start.


it could start without oil..... but the amount of damage you would likely do to it makes it very unwise. if all the oil leaked out there was oil in it when it was started before. if i'm not mistaken that case is aluminum. if you can find someone that does tig welding (i think it's tig for aluminum).... they could probably weld that crack without taking the motor apart..... just a thought.

please take a moment to rate this solution.. thanks

Apr 16, 2009 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

2 Answers

KX60 2001,losing oil from crank casing and won't start.


Hi!

Well, first of all, YES it will start without any oil at all, but in a few minits it will be damaged badly inside the engine. The oils has nothing to do if it starts or not.
Now to that crack youve got under the bike, well its damn expenisve to buy a new casing, BUT you dont need to buy one:) the crack can be WELD:) thats something you cant do yourself. Take the bike to someone good at welding and he will fix it for you in notime:) and its cheap to do it. DO NOT drive the bike before you fill it up with new oil, dont even start it up again without any oil in it, that can be very expensive to do that if you are unlucky.

Good luck
Nic

Apr 16, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki ZX-9 R Ninja

1 Answer

How to set valve gaps on a 1996 Suzuki DR650


Hi, with a cold engine, do the following.
Turn off ignition, fuel and remove seat and tank. Undo the central magneto inspection window and 17mm timing mark bolt on the LHS engine cover. Take out a sparkplug. Remove both valve rocker covers.
Turn motor counter-clockwise (using a socket on the nut at the end of the magneto spline) until the timing mark (T) lines up with the centre of the inspection bolt hole. Check all four rocker arms have a slight amount of free play, if not, rotate engine a further 360o. When all four valve rockers have some play, the piston is at top dead centre of compression stroke when all valves are closed. Your now ready to set the gaps.
Loosen lock nut with a ring spanner and adjust gap with a screwdriver, place feeler gauge under tappet between valve stem. Tighten down screw till moderate pressure is felt when sliding the feeler guage. Tighten lock nut ensuring screw does not tighten with it. Do all four valves and crank motor over a couple of revs by hand and check gaps again.
Gaps are as follows:
Inlet 0.08mm - 0.13mm
Exh. 0.17mm - 0.22mm
Goodluck, cheers!

Mar 03, 2009 | 1996 Suzuki DR 650 SE

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