Clutch is slipping
The clutch friction plates may be worn out.
The clutch adjustment is likely way out in any case. You will need to go into the inspection (derby) cover and adjust the clutch and the cable adjustment will have to be done at the same time.
Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with a one half inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a nine sixteenths inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put Loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all free play and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch push rod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 NM). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever free play, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of free play between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this free play then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.
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