Question about 2001 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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I bought a 2001 intruder 1400 started great then all of a sudden I tried to start it and click click like battery going bad. So I bought a new battery, I stalled it one day and did the same thing click. So I bought a trickle charger and charged it up would start for about $ or % days then have to charge again and start for about 4 or 5 days till now about a couple days. I bought a voltage regulator and started right up for a couple days now ding the same thing. Where do I go from here is it the stator or someone said the solenoid. I am no mechanic need help.

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 58,679 Answers

Hi, James before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Suzuki Vs 1400 intruder S83 test alternateur low voltage charging check AVI
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Apr 29, 2017

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 948 Answers

SOURCE: fireblade rr 2001 starting problem

Your trickle charger has killed your battery. Replace the battery and all will be well.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 8909 Answers

SOURCE: My 2001 honda cbr 929

Replace the voltage regulator before it kills the rest of the system.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

  • 738 Answers

SOURCE: my bike will start a

Hi first advice i would give,is not to run the machine wth a discharged battery when the battery is in a state of discharge electrical items such as Expensive cdi ignition units can become faulty due to overcharging, the most likely reason is the battery itself, if you havenot replaced this, then do so now, secondly thr regulator rectifier, this alows power to travel only 1 way while at the same time converting AC to DC, faulty rectifiers alow voltage to travel from the rectifier in the wrong direction causing the battery to discharge,

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

SOURCE: 2006 Honda 750cc Shadow Aero starts with choke, runs for a minute, sputters and stalls. Won't start again for a couple of days, then starts right up. Electrical?

Hi there
I once had a wee car,whenever it got too much petrol inside itself it refused to go anywhere and had to rest for some time and you had to be very careful with the choke and the petrol so it did not swallow too much of it and need another rest.
kolbrun

Posted on Apr 02, 2012

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