Always very frustrating when you have an issue like this. Just to recap on my understanding what you have ruled out:
- not a battery issue as you have a car battery linked up!?
- not the starter motor as you have tried a second one!?
- rotation is only slightly better with the plugs removed ( trust this is all four? )
My suggestions would be:
1) remove all the plugs and with the bike in neutral, remove the timing cover at the crank and turn the crank clockwise and see how much resistance you get over a few full revolutions. Everything should move nice and easy, if it does not then there is something mechanically wrong in the engine.
2) when did you last change the oil and filter? I would suggest you do this to ensure you do not have a load of sludge in there which will certainly add lots of resistance when cranking a cold motor.
3) is it possible you are experiencing clutch drag? When cranking the bike pull the clutch in to ensure the clutch is truly disengaged and not dragging.
Try the above points and let me know how you get on.
redzed.proboards.com
SOURCE: Rear cylinder not firing
The first thing I would do is replace the spark plugs again. You can foul a plug and it will cause you more problems than you can ever imagine. I see you have done all the logical things that I would recommend but I did not see you have replaced the plugs after the 200 miles. You would be surprised at how many times a $2.00 part can cause fits beyond belief.
SOURCE: my gilera RC 600 COBRA doesn´t start
Hi Jose ,
It seems the timming may not be correct thus the back-fire.
Please check the ignition timming and valve timming too .
Hope this helps
SOURCE: cbr250rr 1990 model won't start
Guess I should post my answer as a solution so you can rate the solution. Clarifications can't be rated. Any results yet?
The timing should be okay. Sitting for two years will not change it. Pull all the plugs and give a shot of WD40 into each cylinder while pushing the starter button. This will get some lubrication to the cylinder walls and piston rings. It will also help the rings to seal up. Now do the compression check. The readings should be within 10 psi of the top reading. If using aerostart, spray it into the air cleaner not the carbs. The air cleaner will greatly lessen the chances of a fire caused by an engine backfire. Always have a fire extinguisher on hand when messing with the carbs.
Bear in mind that some of the rings may be stuck in the piston grooves and will not be free to spring outward to seal against the cylinder wall. The WD40 may help here also. The worst case is that you will need to pull the head and cylinder to physically free the rings. Your pike is now 19 years old and the valves have probably never been worked on. Now would be the time to re-seat the valves. Depending on the condition of the cylinder, piston and rings, you may want to re-bore the cylinder and mount new piston and rings. At least run a cylinder hone through each cylinder.
I was going to just post this as a "clarification" but have sort of gotten into it now. All I ask is a "Helpfull" rating The "Thanks for trying" rating is a real bummer for a guy just trying to help. Get back to me.
Not sure what manual you have but compression is never checked at anything above idle. Crank and idle speed compression should be 140 to 160 psi.
SOURCE: scooter wont start
carb could be clogged with trash even though fuel is gettin to carb the main jet could be blocked not letting fuel enter intake
SOURCE: xv1000 starter motor doesn't turn engine over fast enough
i had the same problem on my 1983 venture. i replaced the original battery wire with a #6 copper battery cable, from the battery to the starter selanoid and then to the starter, never had a problem again.
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