Question about 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

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I have spent the better part of the day trying to bleed the brakes on my bike. I have rebuilt the master cylinder and cleaned every thing thoroughly. I have pumped the lever 2to3 thousand times. 20 to 50 at a time then using the bleeder valve. I CAN NOT get the pressure to build in the master cylinder. can anyone help?

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1 Answer

You have to open any bleeder valve first

Then you slowly push out the air & brake fluid

There is never any pumping to be done on a car
or any product in order to bleed any fluid.

All your doing is getting out the air

Then when the system is closed there is no pumping
to create a high hydraulic pressure ,just a gentle application
of the brake or clutch

Posted on Sep 01, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bleeding front brakes

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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1 Answer

Brake pressure issue


Wow, that's different. There are only a few things left to try. To keep from buying unneeded parts first try bleeding this way one more time.

Do the longest brakeline first, then next longest, until you work your way to the shortest line. Then try it.

Now for a difference when starting the engine, your Brake booster is working. You should have a Reserve of Vacuum in the booster for at least one pedal depression. If you don't, the Booster valve or Booster Bladder is bad.

The Booster valve is relatively cheap. Test the booster bladder; you do not want to use a chemical. With the engine running, some people will use a torch propane tank with a rubber hose on it to direct propane around the Brake booster. The propane will cause the engine RPM to change indicating a bad bladder. Propane is safe in small amounts and was used to set air/mix in the early days of Pollution control.

The Master cylinder could have pulled in sediment when the old parts were removed from the system. Now it is hanging up.

For bleeding brakes there are different methods. I prefer to draw fluid with a hand Vacuum pump like a Mighty Vac. The advantages are it is less messy and far more controllable. Pumping a defective Master cylinder may not work for you. Power bleeding with a Canister and Master cylinder cap adapter will be better than relying on the Master cylinder alone. Gravity bleeding works, but may not work with a bad Master cylinder leaking more fluid in one chamber than the other.

Check for hose twists in the rubber lines you replaced. The ridges on the hoses should be parallel when you hang the caliper.

Please rate my info and let me know the final solution.

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My 2002 yamaha yz250 has been sitting for maybe four to five years and i haven't touched anything that has to do with the brakes only cleaned out the carb, but the other day i took it out riding and...


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HARLEY- 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE front brake bleeding problem master rebuilt caliper also lever builds preasure but when bike is started and moved the lever bottoms out NO BRAKES


Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.

First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.

Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.

If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.

Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.

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1 Answer

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sorry you went thru all of that... those vehicles have an issue with power brake boosters. one more thing to replace...Or, you still have air in the system...

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Mushy / squishy brakes are usually caused by the brake master cylinder seals failing. You can buy a rebuild kit or a re-built replacement master cylinder. I would recommend the rebuilt master cylinder as all the detail work has already been accomplished and it is not a huge expense. The key is to make sure that your use a bleeder kit to "Pre-bleed" the master kit before installation. Your making sure that the master cylinder is free of air before installation. If you instal it with air in the system it wil take you the better part of a quart of brake fluid to bleed the whole brake system via the wheel cylinders. What will happen is after you install the master cylinder the brakes would still be mushy and until you got the residual air out of all of the lines it would appear and act just like it did before you changed the master cylinder.

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It's possible that the brake system is not thoroughly bled. It can take a lot of work to completely bleed a system after it's been disassembled. I would recommend re-bleeding, making sure to bleed at all the banjo bolts (for each banjo bolt, pump and hold the lever, crack the bolt open 1/4 turn, and then retorque while holding the lever down -- repeat for each banjo). You can also tap the calipers, lines, and master cylinder with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle while bleeding. If you have access to a pressure bleeder, I would recommend using it, as this will do the job faster.

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1 Answer

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