Adjusting carb needle - 2007 Johnny Pag Spyder 300

When you cleaned the carbs you left the adjusting needles in. Turn the needles in and count the number of turns before they bottom. Write it down for reference as a starting point. You will need to take the carbs apart again and take the needles out as well to reclean them. The needles interact with the jets and when you did the cleaning the first time, it sounds like something got loose and lodged inside. If you want to give a try without taking the carbs off, remove the needles and use the tube from the carb spray to 'inject' the carb through the vent hole. This may force the crud out through the needle holes.

Hi Roseann, newer 2 stroke engines for the past 6 or 7 years have changed to newer carburetors, and some of them don't have any adjustment needles at all, or just 1 adjustment needle adjust. Without knowing how old your Homelite is or what type of carb you have, I will assume you have adjustments. If you look carefully at your carb, next to each needle you will find the letters F or H, F is the fast speed adjust needle and L is the low one. In general the L or low speed needle is the one closest to the motor. To adjust them you turn both the H and L needles in (clockwise) until lightly seated (so no damage is done to the needle or the seat), now you turn them both out (counterclockwise) 1 turn. You should be able to start your vac with these settings. Only minor adjustments should be required if any at all. To adjust the low one with your engine running at idle, turn in just a little and notice if any difference, if not turn a little bit more until it starts to run rough, now bring back to the position you started with and now turn it out (counterclockwise) in small turns at a time until it starts to run rough. When you do this remember the position of the needle (how far in and how far out) and adjust to the needle to the middle of those 2 positions. Do the same with the H or high needle. At the top of the carb where the throttle cable hooks to the carb you will find a screw that is to adjust the idle speed by adjusting the throttle position. You can adjust that screw at any time to get the idle speed you want.
I hope this is a bit helpful to you. All the best and good luck. Any questions welcome.

Before doing anything check the carb fasteners to make sure they are properly torqued as air could be leaking in making the engine not run right, also check the air and gas filters, fuel lines and anything obvious also as a possibility they might be the problem. If anything obvious like that does not work, this could be a carburator ajust problem. Many of the carbs on grass trimmers in the past few years do not have adjustment needles, everything is ported inside the carb. So without knowing anything about your machine and if you have adjust needles this is the basic procedure for adjusting. The 2 needles might completily be out of adjustment, so turn them in ( clockwise) until lightly seated so the seat is not damaged, now turn the 2 needles counter clockwise 1 turn. This is the basic adjust for most carbs to start and run, now make the adjustments. Turn the low speed needle about 1/8 of a turn at a time counterclockwise to let more gas in and try that up to 1 turn (always remember the start position before any adjustment is made). If that does not work return to start position. Now try the high speed needle with the same procedure. If that does not not work, try adjusting both at the same time. If nothing works you probably need a carb overhaul. Maybe only a cleaning or a carb kit might be needed. I hope this helps you out a little. Best regards and good luck.

Only adjustment that can be made are to the idle, idle mixture and needle valve which requires some disassembly. Idle mixture should be mae when engine is warm. remove brass plug on bottom of carb ( need to drill out) be carefull, may need to remove carb. Install carb, warm up engine and adjust screw in or out to acheive best idle, then turn in 1/4 turn. adjust engine idle to 900- 950 rpm. If engine smokes under accel drop needle down 1 notch, if seems weak or hesitates under load, raise needle one notch, refer to Harley manual for specifics

The float needle is stuck open. Typically the needle can get a speck of dirt or the float adjustment arm is not properly aligned. The arm should be able to close the needle at approximately 90 degrees. Remove the float bowl and look at the carb from the side and adjust the arm to seat the needle when the floats are about where they would be as if the bowl were full of fuel.
Good luck.

Set the lowend & highend needles to about 1 3/4 to 2 turns each. Choke the carb or prime it, until the carb is wet. Fire up the engine and let it warm up. Let's set the topend first since it's the easier of the two. Go to full throttle. Adjust the topend needle for peak RPM. Leave it wide open for about a minute to see if it changes any. Should the engine go lean, open the lowend needle slightly, if this dosen't work... you will have to adjust the needle valve inside the carb.( I will explain this later) If the topend runs OK, then slowly pull the throttle down until the engine begins to "four cycle" hold the throttle there. Adjust the lowend needle until the "four cycling" barely stops. Now lower the throttle more until it "four cycles" again, and adjust the lowend again. Keep doing this until you reach full idle. Now, from full idle begin to throttle up until the engine starts to bog or hesitate. Open up the lowend needle just enough to eliminate the bog or hesitation.

http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

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its your needle and seat inside the carb ? adjusting those 2 screws only messes up the fuel air mixture ? you can remove carb and try to free it up but honestly unless its new itll cost more to repair than a new one so you may want too toss it ? good luck

You shouldn't have to adjust anything as long as you don't increase the jet size and put everything back the same way it is removed.

You describe a problem with either the float or the float-needle and seat. If the needle is not seating then the gas flows past it. If the float has a pin-hole leak, then it will fill with gas and sink.
On some bikes you can remove the carb bowl without removing the carbs. If so, slide the hinge pin holding the float to one side and remove. The float will drop straight down. Catch the needle since it is now loose. Unscrew the needle seat with a socket.
Clean all metal parts in carburator cleaner...do not get carb cleaner on any rubber part. Shake the float and listen for gas inside or see if it floats in water.
Test the needle seal in the seat by blowing gently thru seat. Needle must seat completly with very little pressure holding the needle in the seat.
Re-assemble with new bowl gasket if damaged. A carb rebuild kit ($35) might be available for 1973 carb and contains all new parts instead of cleaning. Kit might even contain new float and float adjust guide.
Avoid adjusting float level if re-using the old float. If using new float, temporarily install old and measure distance to carb body. Install new and match this measuremnt. Bend tang to adjust.

Good luck,
Techjoel

Dear Craig,
Presuming that the carb is clean !
It seems that you have either set the float level incorrectly, or allowed the needle to become jammed. The float bowl should a little less than 3/4 full of fuel when the fuel is shut off by the needle and seat.
Check that the needle and seat are working correctly by blowing in the fuel pipe, and then closing the needle by hand. Check that the flow is stopped when the needle is fully raised.
The needle and seat do need to replaced from time to time, but generally last well.
If the needle and seat work, then look at the float level.
Further check to see that the floats are not filling with fuel. If this is the case, then the floats will have to be replaced as most repairs are only temporary.
When the floats are fuel logged the needle will not be raised and fuel flow to the carb will be continuous.