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Release a little bit of tension on the clutch lever down at the primary cover. Pull the pin out of the clutch lever pivot. Roll the lever out of the perch. Pop the lead cable end out of the lever and pop it back into the replacement lever. Roll lever back into the perch, replace the pivot pin. Re-adjust the clutch cable to the proper tension and check it before you start it. Else give your self at least 30 feet to regain your dignity in the likely event it may not be correct on the first adjustment.
The gear shifter doesn't connect to the clutch, the clutch pedal and clutch release fork connect to the clutch. The shift linkage connects to the transmission through a 3 part lever with 2 adjustment points.
Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...
I would bet money that the clutch is hydraulic and non adjustable like all others made after 1990. I have not seen a mechanically operated clutch in anything made since 1980.
As far as your clutch adjustment ,I can't help you but the fact that the bike is older you might want to try removing the exhaust pipe at the baffel end and see if there is a difference in power ,if there is clean out your baffel and your good to go.
hope this helps
jerry
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