Question about 2003 kawasaki KX 125
My 2000 kx 125 won't kick start it will jump start no probs though. I've changed spark plug air filter, took the carb outstripped it down and cleaned it, took the cylinder head off. the cylinder is clean. I replaced the head gasket. there is compression maybe down slightly but it just will not kick over any ideas. cheers @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
KX 125 won start have tried everything
KX 125 Dirt Bike Wont Start HELP
Kawasaki KX125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2000 Kawasaki KX125 Owner Manual
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you have very little compression. Or a reed may be broken.. Make sure reed cage is tight an not sucking air... Id go with the compression test tho..
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
SOURCE: it wontt start it has spark
There are only three things that your bike needs to start, Spark, Compression and Fuel, if you say that it has spark and compression then the problem has to be fuel, Make sure that there are no blockages in the line from the tank to the carb, if that is not the problem then you will have to pull the carb and clean out all the ports. I disassemble them as much as possible and empty a can of carb cleaner into a clean coffee can let it soak overnight and then blow out all passages with compressed air and reassemble. You should also pull off your reed cage and check to make sure that your reeds aren't cracked or broke. If your bike was runninng before and you give your carb a good cleaning and the reeds look good and it still doesn't work then you are going to have to look at the other two requirements, your spark should be a bright blue, if not try a spark plug first (you may want to try that before the carb cleaning) next you should get a compression tester and check the compression to make sure it is high enough. Your bike might feel like it has lots of compression but it might be low enough to make it hard to start.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
The three required ingredients for combustion are; fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time). When you cleaned the carb and the jets, did you hold each jet up to a light and actually look through them? The openings in the jets are very small and difficult to clean after than many years of sitting. Same with the carburetor; it needs to be completely disassembled and soaked in carb cleaner, then blown out with compressed air prior to reassembly.
Also, I would check the compression with a gauge. You need to see at least 140 psi on every cylinder, or it is not going to run, no matter what. If the compression is low, adjust the valve tappet clearances and see if that brings it up.
If you come up with the three required ingredients, there's no way it isn't going to run.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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