In no particular order: Check kill-switch on handlebar cluster. Check fuses. Check for loose or corroded wiring harness plugs. Check for bad pulse generator(s). Check for water in spark boxes and proper orientation.
Power comes from the fuse box to the handlebar cluster kill-switch. Check for power at the switch and after the switch with a test light or meter. If switch won't pass voltage, disassemble and clean then lubricate with silicone grease and reassemble.
Check each fuse with a meter. Remove the fuse, don't just measure it in-place. Glass (tubular) fuses can look good but still be blown. Test each one with an Ohm-meter out of the fuse panel. Same goes for newer blade fuses - pull them out and test. Fuse panel itself for blade fuses can be bad. These corrode and fatigue, cracking as base of spring contacts. Must fix fuse panel if bad as no new ones are available.
Remove seat, side-covers & tank then unplug, clean, and reconnect all multi-terminal wires going to/from steering head and coils/spark boxes. Double-check fast-on terminals at coil contacts. Double-check main ground connection to frame (under coil bracket).
Pulse generators inside right crankcase cover can fail and not send position pulses to spark boxes - pretty unlikely though. Check for continuity on each. Should show some resistance - not open. 2 pairs of wires - one pair to each pickup coil.
The spark boxes may be located either on rear fender liner under seat or one here and second one in a pocket on top of the tool-box depending on year. Spark boxes should be mounted with drain hole down and care should be used not to get water in them while washing (why would you wash a Sabre anyway?) Corrosion inside spark boxes is common on these. Some can be repaired but no new ones are available and haven't been for several years.
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