Question about 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

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2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F carburetor tuning

Put a new high compression piston in my kx250f bike starts up but then dies out. @

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 55,816 Answers

Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2006 kx250f carb tuning HELP
Carburator Theory and Tuning
http://www.mx-sport.ru/files/servicemanual-KX250f-06.pdf
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2006 Kawasaki KX250F Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Mar 05, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: kick start has no compression but runs fine once i get it going

Does it feel like yhe kick is even engaging and turning the crankshaft? Are you full stroking/kicking it over or short stroking it? when cold, are you using the choke. I suggest taking a compression test when it feels as if it hs no compression It could be undersized piston, rings, or a simple. good luck

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: i cant start the bike

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: i got a 2004 kx250f, has a rebuilt motor with new

need more info does it hit at all

Posted on Mar 30, 2011

  • 3799 Answers

SOURCE: Will the 2008 kx250f wheels fit on a 2010 kx250f

Measure them and see. But, anything can be made to fit if you really want it to.

Posted on May 28, 2012

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Hi, Anonymous I recommend buying a new one, for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F oil is leaking out of the crankcase breather tube


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Oil tank/system overfilled.
2. Faulty breather valve.
3. Engine breather hose bent, pinched, kinked etc.
4. Air filter has too much "pre-oil".
5. Crankshaft seal failure allowing transmission fluid to migrate.
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2004 Kawasaki KX 250 F will only run with the choke on


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low or too high.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Oct 22, 2013 | 2004 kawasaki KX 250 F

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2004 Kawasaki KX 250 F no compression


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Broken or hole burnt through piston due to spark plug heat range to high or pre-ignition due to the ignition timing too far advanced overheated engine caused by a burnt valve or carbon/metal particle embedded in the cylinder head glowing hot causing abnormal combustion timing.
2. Any bent or broken valve head caused by improper adjustment or sticking/seizing in the valve guide.
3. Broken connecting rod due to bottom end failure.
4. Incorrect cam timing due to either installation error or cam chain malfunction or drive gear failure.
5. Spark plug blew out of head due to improper torque or failed threads.
6. Failed compression release valve or blown out like the spark plug scenario.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Jan 13, 2013 | 2004 kawasaki KX 250 F

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2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F oil leaking out the breather tube


Hi, Phillip and the usual suspects are:
1. Oil tank/system overfilled.
2. Faulty breather valve.
3. Engine breather hose bent, pinched, kinked etc.
4. Air filter has too much "pre-oil".
5. Crankshaft seal failure allowing transmission fluid to migrate.
6. Blow by drain tube cracked/split or filled to capacity.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://www.mx-sport.ru/files/servicemanual-KX250f-06.pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F will not start when hot


Hi, Briar613 and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ignition coil.
2. Faulty spark plug cables.
3. Faulty temperature sensor.
4. HISS light not going off.
5. Faulty starter motor.
6. Valves adjusted too tight.
7. Spark plug gap too wide.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Mar 28, 2011 | 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F bike dies when the clutch lever is pulled in


Hi, Jasonstein the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike died while pulling clutch lever KawiForums Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/69807-kx-250-stalls-when-put-into-gear.html
http://www.mx-sport.ru/files/servicemanual-KX250f-06.pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2006 KX250F blowing oil out breather should I be concerned?


hi
ther is a chance that being over filled will blow out of the crank breather so drain off to the correct level if then the bike still does this then you have to high crank presure meaning the bore and piston/rings are badly worn
thanks jay

Jun 23, 2009 | 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

Kawasaki kx250f 2007 hard to kickstart


If the bike is in neutral and is hard to kick and no piston seize exists, the only other sources for resistance other than compression would be the main bearings and rod bearings, OHC caps, oil pump and water pump. I mention the two pumps because there is a slight possibility that a partial hydraulic lock could be occurring due to a plugged line.

Have you checked the gearbox oil lately?

Jun 02, 2009 | 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

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