1993 Dodge Stealth Oil leak 3.0 SOHC

I'm sorry, but I can't provide visual images or diagrams. However, I can describe the general order of gaskets in a 1999 Dodge Durango engine from the top going down:

1. Valve Cover Gaskets: These gaskets are located on top of the cylinder heads and seal the valve covers. They help prevent oil leaks from the top of the engine.
2. Intake Manifold Gasket: The intake manifold gasket seals the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. It helps maintain proper air-fuel mixture and prevents vacuum leaks.
3. Throttle Body Gasket: If equipped, the throttle body gasket seals the connection between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It ensures proper airflow into the engine.
4. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: These gaskets are located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder heads. They seal the exhaust gases and prevent leaks.
5. Head Gaskets: The head gaskets are situated between the cylinder heads and the engine block. They seal the combustion chambers and coolant passages.
6. Oil Pan Gasket: The oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine and seals the oil pan to the engine block. It prevents oil leaks from the oil pan.
7. Front and Rear Main Seals: These seals are located at the front and rear of the engine crankshaft. They prevent oil leaks where the crankshaft exits the engine block.
8. Timing Cover Gasket: If equipped, the timing cover gasket seals the timing chain or belt cover to the engine block. It helps protect the timing components and prevents oil leaks.

Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique

Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.

The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.

External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.

Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from theintake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal. A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor.

If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.

Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.

Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.

I think it helps to analyse u r Problem

There are three other area's that can leak, here they are in order of how often they occur
1.Engine Valve cover gasket(s) (2 if V6 engine), oil runs down the engine and drips off the pan.
2.Rear crankshaft seal leaking
3.Front crankshaft seal leaking. Oil is blown back by air pressure while driving and rips off of pan.

The Chrysler minivan products all had leaking problems. I have had 5 or 6 different Dodge or Plymouth minivans from 88 to 99. How bad is it. The most common thing is Valve cover leaks. Front and rear seals in the engine leak as well as the oil pan gasket. If its leaking a little bit at a time open the hood and look at the front and rear of the engine. Do you see grease and oil that has gone down the sides of the engine? Do you see a lot of grease on the engine with some clean streaks going through it. You may be able to see where its leaking from. If you know someone that knows what their doing have them change the leaky gasket/s. If not you can probably have it repaired for less than buying another van unless other things are seriously wrong with the van.
Hope this helps... Dale

1. timing cover is leaking oil betwwen cover and block
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
3. Remove the drive belt(s), fan and fan shroud. If equipped, remove the accessory drive belt pulley.
   
4. Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt and washer. Remove the vibration damper using a suitable puller.
   
5. Remove the accessory drive brackets attached to the timing cover.
   
6. Remove the A/C compressor, if equipped, and alternator bracket from the cylinder head and move to one side.
   
7. Remove the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts and the cover-to-cylinder block bolts.
   
8. Remove the timing case cover front seal and gasket from the engine.
   
9. Cut off the oil pan side gasket end tabs and oil pan front seal tabs flush with the front face of the cylinder block. Remove the gasket tabs.
   
10. Clean the timing case cover, oil pan and cylinder block gasket surfaces.
    
11. Remove the crankshaft seal oil seal from the cover by prying it out with a suitable tool.
    

To install:

1. Install a new seal in the timing cover using a suitable seal installation tool.
   
2. Apply sealer to both sides of the replacement cover gasket and position the gasket on the cylinder block. Cut the end tabs off the replacement oil pan gasket corresponding to those cut off the original gasket. Attach the end tabs to the oil pan with sealer.
   
3. Coat the front cover seal end tab recesses generously with sealer and position the seal on the timing cover.
   
4. Apply engine oil to the seal-oil pan contact surface, then position the cover on the cylinder block.
   
5. Insert timing case cover alignment tool J22248 or equivalent, in the crankshaft opening. Install the cover-to-cylinder block bolts and tighten them to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Install and tighten the oil pan-to-cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
   
6. Remove the cover alignment tool and position a replacement oil seal on the tool with the seal lip facing outward. Apply a light coat of sealer to the seal and a light coat of oil to the crankshaft. Install the seal on the timing cover.
   
7. Apply a light film of oil to the vibration damper hub seal contact surface. Install the vibration damper using a suitable installation tool.
   

Do not hammer the damper into place as damage may result to the damper or engine.

1. Install and tighten the crankshaft vibration damper bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
   
2. If equipped, install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
   
3. Install the accessory brackets.
   
4. Install the fan and fan shroud.
   
5. Install the drive belt(s) and adjust to the proper tension.
   
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
   
7. Start the engine and check for leaks
   
8. .
   

Are you sure have a leak,? you saw it? they usually don't leak only from the valve cover gasket.
If you see oil drip by the passenger side of the oil pan the leak could be the crankshaft seal.
if the oil is in the center of the engine rear main seal is the problem.
If al around the oil pan is wet with oil but the oil do not make it to the floor, then the person who is doing the oil changes is not cleaning properly.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/flavio_517b938f50183b92

yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove belt.
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.

If you have questions, let me know.

OIL LEAKS UNDER CAR COULD BE COMING FROM LEAKING OIL FILTER OR OIL PAN GASKET.CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS AROUND REAR MAIN OIL SEAL AND FRONT TIMING COVER CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OR LIP SEAL AT THE LOWER TIMING COVER TO OIL PAN.

Since it's not clear whether you mean driver side or passenger side, I will address both.

On the driver side, the most common leak is from the distributor. This can be caused by the distributor shaft exterior o-ring, or it can be caused by the distributor shaft interior bearing seal. To determine which it is, remove the distributor. First detach the spark plug wires, then undo the bolt that holds the distributor to the head, then pull the distributor out of the head. You will see the o-ring on the exterior of the distributor shaft. This is a $0.50 part, so just replace it with a new one as long as you have the distributor out. The bearing seal is on the inside of the distributor. To inspect it, undo the three bolts holding the cap to the distributor body. Pop the rotor off the shaft, the unclip the inside plastic cover. If you see any oil inside the distributor or the distributor cap, this means the seal is leaking and must be replaced. You can get a seal and bearing replacement kit from kbox.ca. Or, you can just buy a new distributor. Note: To get the distributor back in place you must align the shaft correctly with the notch in the camshaft. There is a right way and a wrong way. If the shaft seems to be aligned but does not go in, pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees, then put it back in.

The other possibility on the driver side of the engine is the main seal between the engine and transmission. If this is the case, you would have to either drop the transmission or pull the engine to replace it.

What if the oil is leaking on the passenger side? If it's coming from behind the timing belt cover, there is a camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal, both of which can leak oil. To get to them, you will have to remove all accessory belts and the alternator, remove the exterior crankshaft pulley, remove the engine mount (support the engine) and the timing belt covers, remove the timing belt, then the crankshaft pulley and/or camshaft pulley, whichever is necessary to replace the leaking seal(s).

Where else could oil be leaking from? If it's coming out from near the top of the engine, that's the valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. While you're at it, replace the spark plug tube seals.

If it's coming out from near the bottom of the engine, it could be the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

One more possibility for oil leakage: The head gasket. But in this case you would have noticed other symptoms besides just an oil leak.

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.