First need to set push rod freeplay 1/16th clearance @ engine clutch basket then set handle bar
Usualy ther is a ajusting bolt/mechinism just after the clutch lever. Follow the cable to find it.
Loosten the nuts and turn the inner "bolt" inse the outer one.
Or if if its the mechanism just turn it anti clock wise to loosten.
SOURCE: stiff shifting into second gear
Yes, too much slack can cause the problem. Remove the slack by adjusting the cable at both ends if needed. Here's the deal, if the clutch does not work fully, the engine is still applying pressure to the driven gear. The pressure on the gear does not let the shifter move freely.
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Try this little test > on a clear road shift from 2nd to 3rd using the clutch but don't let off the gas when you shift. If the motor reved up when you shifted then the clutch was doing its' part at least a bit. Now do the same process but this time do not use the clutch at all. Instead, let off the gas when you shift. Letting off the gas lessens the drive pressure on the gears and will allow the shifter to better do its' part. Not using the clutch is commonly referred to a "power shifting ". If out on the road and the clutch cable breaks, this is a way to keep going for a bit.
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As to worn dogs and shift forks, your bike is pretty new so I doubt wear is a problem. A bent shift fork is a possibility but since you have a funky clutch cable I suggest we keep it simple and start there.
SOURCE: 2004 FZS 1000 Clutch slipping problem.
Sounds like the friction material bonded on the friction plate are coming off, time to do a clutch job.
Testimonial: "Thanks. It'll be stripped on Thursday for a look."
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