Question about kawasaki Motorcycles
What is it that if I start the ignition switch the neutral light is low and my headlights? @
Posted by Anonymous on
If the color blue wire in the stator was no current what is the result?
Posted on Oct 28, 2018
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Jul 10, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am assuming you checked to make sure the battery is charged? When my ignitions switch went bad it showed signs of failure first I had to jiggle the key to get it to work. That being said it could be the switch, it is a very simple change and if you get an after market switch not that expensive. The Harley switch is $40.00 I got an after market for around $15.00.
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
well i would try the switch and see and if that doesnt work then check the wiring for a loose connection or ground or maybe it could be as ez as checking the light bulb it might be loose in the socket
Posted on May 26, 2009
SOURCE: Kawasaki zx7 won't start
Hi. I had the same issues as what your saying. What we found was that the leads are a screw in into the spark plug cap. Unscrew the leads to the cap, trim the ends off by a mm or 2 and re-screw back into cap that goes onto spark plug. There renown for pulling out and giving weak or no spark.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Probably time for a new battery. But first, check to be sure that water covers the top of the battery plates. Add water if needed.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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