My 2006 Silverado has a hard time staying running after sitting a few days. It will start and stall, start and stall for at least five minutes then after 20 times or so it will start and backfire and try to stall but will stay running.
SOURCE: Hard starting when cold, runs rough at idle and any steady speed.
Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.
If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.
You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.
Then re-assemble
This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.
You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.
SOURCE: 2001 Yamaha Banshee that won't stay running
If your jetting is too rich it will be extremely hard to kick start it and will most likely flood it from kicking.First thing i would do is pull the top of the carbs off (cable,slides and needles) and see which clip they're set at. If they are set stock which would be middle clip then lower the needle one clip. This will lean the mix out and should start up easier with no problems,The idle issue is most likely just off.If your fiance still has the TORS on it then on top of the carbs he will see 2 dime size and screws and wires as soon as he takes his seat off.While running he can turn each dime size screw in or out to adjust the idle. If it has a TORS elimator kit on it then he won't have all the junk on top of the carbs and it will be just a cable and round cap screwed directly on top of the carbs and the idle screws will be on the side of each carb (brass color screws with nuts to tighten) same thing...in or out to adjust the idle where needed.Hope this helps.
-Steve
SOURCE: I have a 2003 yamaha ttr 125. At times it acts
3 things,
carb check
float bowl check
and clutch check.
these, if not set right will give out what you are experiencing.
you may refer to the manual on the default / recommended settings depending on the type of gas you are using.
regards, safe trails.
SOURCE: I have a 1998 tw200 it dies when I run it hard.
Back firing is commonly an indication of a lean fuel mixture, and is commonly caused by a blockage in the carb jets or fuel passages in the carb. It only takes something small to cause real problems. The flooding if that is wat is happening is most likely caused by the needle and seat not sealing. Going through the carb is not a difficult process if you have some mechanic skills, if not take it to a shop.
Testimonial: "Good info. thanks"
SOURCE: 1976 ty175 yamaha cutting out after a few minutes
Several things could cause this and are somewhat inter related. I would clean the carb inside and out to start with. Check the reeds for cracks, chips and distortion. The cost is only a can of spray carb cleaner. Timing is not likely to be a factor. Use a timing light to check if you wish, again the cost is little or nothing. The most likely causes are bad crankshaft seals and/or the need for new seals on the intake assembly. The metal carb fits into a flexible fitting between it and the reed assembly. When the fitting gets old and hard it tends to loose it's ability to seal. Often they will develop cracks that let in air which leans the fuel mix. When the engine warms up the cracks widen and the engine runs poorly.
Testimonial: "thanks again guru!! u always had great explanations!! i greatly appreciate u thanks,Bill"
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