I TURNED OUT THE IDLE SCREW CABLE OF My ZZR 400 N, where does this go back into the carb and can i replace this without removing the carbs? please advise ta
Re: I TURNED OUT THE IDLE SCREW CABLE OF My ZZR 400 N,...
Yes this can be replace without removing the carbs and it goes at the rear of the carbs reach your hand through the fairing and it goes on the throttle stop
you will need to feel with your hands
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get a colortune tool.it shows how your firing.read instructions that come with,so simple to tune carb in with.sounds like pilot out of adjustment.could also have a leak in ur carb boot or head.take a torch without lighting open valve with motor running run torch around gaskets and front of carb boot listen for change in motor.if it gets higher rev uve found a leak.
Hi. I think you might be looking for the traditional brass flat head screw that is typically found and used to adjust engine idle. This carburetor should have a black plastic knob that you turn to change idle speed. Look where the throttle cable attaches to the cam wheel on the carb. The knob I mentioned earlier makes contact with that throttle cam. Please write back if there are any other questions. If by chance I misunderstood your request please provide more details regarding the problem. Also photos can be a big help too since sometimes different carbs are installed.
I can share with your sentiment there. Here's are some of my ideas, you'll need to be patient enough though.
the jets you used, is it the stock replacement or a bigger one? I would recommend using the stock jets to eliminate the possibility of it being the cause. Tune your engine using a timing light, synchronize the carburetors so each intake manifold receives the same amount of fuel on throttle. Drain the fuel form the carb reservoir (or clean the whole carbs including the jets). Adjust the air-fuel mix to standard or 2.5 -3.5 turns out. Check for hose dents and check for proper plug firing.
Make sure cylinder compression is also good otherwise you'll suffer power loss on peak RPMs at high speeds.
The above process should eliminate any possibility with regards engine idling and poor idling.
To answer your question regarding valve clearance you'll need to download the manual to assist you on dissassembly. You'll need to remove the top cover on the engine and use a feeler gauge for adjustments. I'm not sure how to find the TopDeadCenter of this particular bike but the manual should.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Install a new stock NGK spark plug. Remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Please rate this solution. Thanks!
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.
FOR EACH carb > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together and install the carbs. Sync the carbs such that the slides on both carbs move at the same exact instant when the throttle is slowly turned from idle speed. This process should get you back on the road. Please rate this solution. Thanks!
The air screw and the idle screw turn inward until they LIGHTLY seat, then back out one and one half turns. For the dead spot, pull the slide out of the carb and move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. Two notches if needed.
The pilot jet covers the idle function. It sounds like this is not the problem though. The high idle indicates a lean fuel mix. An air leak is leaning the mix. It could be bad intake manifold gaskets, carb and manifold not down tight, loose spark plug, cylinder head not tight, bad head gasket.
If you do want to adjust the pilot jet the, often it is adjustable from the outside of the carb. It is normally located just out side and next to the main jet. It will be brass and have a slot for a small screw driver. If no outside screw, then an inside adjustment screw means removing the float bowl. Turn the jet screw outward 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.
Remove the CARBS from the bike. FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
BALANCE THE CARBS Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place. Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove theLEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB. With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS. Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!
The problem is the carbs.
Is there any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install an in-line fuel filter. FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. I strongly suggest you to let the shop take care of the carbs. Cleaning can be a nightmare times four and doing the balancing and sync of the carbs sounds easier than it is. If you do the carb work yourself, then be sure you have a fire extinguisher at hand. I am serious about that. Please rate this solution. Thanks!
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