Engine noise knocking sound in engine

Piston noise makes a noise that goes away when the engine warms most times, rod knocks get much louder as the engine is loaded, Keep driving it and see what blows? Have you checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gage?

Knock Sensor contains no moving parts and can not make any noise. It only detects noise in the engine block to allow the engine control computer to make adjustments as needed.

knocking or clanging usually means engine rebuild or replacement
What is piston rod knock Engine Knocking Yahoo Video Search Results 3 Causes of Engine Knock

Well the knock sensor does not make any noise. It senses the vibration in the engine if there is a spark knock to let the computer know to slow down the spark timing.
You probably have a weak piston or lifter or rod bearing making the noise.

If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

This is hard to say with hearing the noise but try to pin point the noise , is it coming from the top or bottom of the motor , the knocking noise could be a bearing in the lower motor or may be something else making it sound like a bearing,

Engine knocking noise is that sound from the engine that sounds like a knock. It is caused when there is an increased metal to metal contact, due to friction n wear of parts n it is mostly associated wid insufficient circulation of engine oil to the engine parts hence increase in friction n the noise. It is a warning to be taken seriously or the engine might finally pack up. This is what we finally refer to as a knocked engine. Sometimes in such extreme cases replacement might be d only solution.

Hard to say over the internet but I will try to explain. If the noise is a distict KNOCK KNOCK and it sounds like it is coming from the bottom of the engine, then it most likely is a rod or main bearing. If it is a TAP TAP noise that sounds like it's coming from the top of the engine, then most likely a valve lifer is failing/failed.
the fact that it goes away when the car is warm, makes me lean towards a bad lifter. Normaly if a bearing is bad and knocking, the noise doesn't go away.

The KNOCK noise will be somewhat hollow sounding and the TAP TAP sound will be more solid. If the KNOCK KNOCK is solid, then a rod or main bearing has most likely failed to the point that a new/reman engine will be needed.

No it isnt a knock sensor the knock sensor job is to detect a knock noise and ****** timing. The knock that it is looking for is from octane or fuel or pinging that creates N0X s. A pollution gas. The knocking noise that you are hearing is different. If it is a multiple noise ar a rattling sound that will be the valves. There are other noises like a piston knock this knock is a sharp metallic noise, If the knock occurs only on acceleration that noise is a crankshaft noise. You need to check you oil level and make sure it is corrects. Look at the oil condition do you see silverish or whitish condition,is the oil deep black.

take rubber hose and place near ear use as stethoscope, pin point noise, and pull apart, till problem is located. buy manual