Does the ring expander go on the top or bottom ring?

You describe the situation as a heavy blowby. In the usually accepted meaning of the term blowby relating to an engine, means piston blowby and is recognised by a large amount of whitish vapour being expelled through the crankcase breather, dipstick tube and the oil filler cap if removed. This usually indicates the excessive wear of cylinder bores, pistons and piston rings that are no longer capable of sealing and allow combustion gas to blowby.

If the vapour puffs in sympathy with the engine speed it suggests stuck or broken piston rings confined to a single cylinder or a damaged piston.

It is difficult to understand how this would happen with a newly overhauled engine that surely must have been rebored and had new pistons fitted in order to qualify as overhauled. I can possibly advise you further if you post details of the overhaul in the comments section.

Not unrelated but perhaps surplus information just now - new cast iron piston rings take 500 miles to bed in to new properly honed bores while steel rings take 1000 miles. It is important to complete those miles with the engine filled with a base or low grade engine oil or proper running-in oil. Filling a newly overhauled engine with a modern high-spec oil can mean the piston rings will never bed in and forever afterwards the engine ios likely to smoke and consume a lot of oil.

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.

we are USA
no KB here, not a one., sorry why ask Yankee's this./..??
your machine shop would not ask that question.
a real overhaul (if measurements prove the case, all parts are MIKED)
1: measure bores. top/bottom and 90 degrees.
2: then bore and hone it to next oversize.
3: then new pistons and rings. and all new bearings

any thing, less is a DIY, trash build.
shade tree , hack.
(the Bernard Lawrence Madoff" ) way. (dig?)
there is one more way, if measurements warrant. IT.
light hone,.
new rings, std, size or what's there, now.
then keep old pistons if lands measure ok. (inspections here are many )

I guess you don't have the micrometer sets to do this right?
inside bore gauge. etc.?
what we do is take the block to a real machine shop
the mic it for a fee. (some do it for free)
then they tell you what is best, and is always the best answer.
why not let a pro rebuild your engine.
for max future life, not lowest cost and shortest life.

ask how to clean a block after honing
its not easy and must NOT BE SKIPPED.

Did you talk to the service people about the problem? I would take it back if they included a charge for looking into the problem. If it was a dealer I would definately return it and talk to the service manager. Otherwise, you may want to take it buy your favorite auto parts store and ask them to read the ECU (fuel brain) for error codes.

You need to take in car service.


Friday The 13th In Real LIfe Prank Itvchannel

Your engine has an issue, on the cylinder with the wet spark plug, that is resulting in motor oil getting into the combustion chamber. The two main causes are a broken piston ring or worn valve guides/damaged valve guide seal. The former is a bigger issue as the pistons have to be removed to replace piston rings, which is a major undertaking and often reguires engine removal. The valve issue is significantly easier, which can be cured by what is called a "top overhaul". However, even a top overhaul is beyond the scope of a casual DIY pundit.

WHITE SMOKE INDICATE SLIGHT HEAD GASKET.STOP SMOKING WHEN ENGINE GET HOT.HEAD EXPANDS ENOUGH TO STOP THE LEAK.BUT I SEEN CASES WHERE THE HEADS HAD TO BE PRE TORQUE AFTER ENGINE OVERHAUL.ALSO YOUR ENGINE WILL USE OIL UNTIL PISTON RINGS SEAT.SO KEEP EYE ON OIL LEVEL.

you have bad seals in the valves or bad piston rings.

excessive piston clearance.really needed bore job with oversized piston,not just honed and rings.measure piston to cylinder clearance,check spcifications and verify

These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.

• Remove the cylinder head.Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  

• Drain the engine oil.
  Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
  Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
  Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
  Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
  One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
  After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
  The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
  When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.