Ok let me try again with this hi i have a suzuki wagon r 1999 v reg but the engine layout is that of a 1998 it has a k12a engine it is a 1.2 basically i turned it off was running fine tried to start it again and bat was flat so jumped it started dove home left running for 15 mins try charge battery but batt was knackered so bought new one as soon as i put it in car turns as if it wants to start check engine light flashing no spark at plugs i have replaced and checked coil power is going to dizzy just not out to plugs also checked fuel it ok as well injectors seem ok replaced cam sensor checked main fuses ok check igniter seems ok as well phoned mech for a diagnostic he says no fault showing does anybody know if the immo will cause this as i dont know if the immo cuts power to coil or will stop plugs from sparking any advice would br great been at it since last week
All fuses good, using ohm meter tests in hand. or better
12v on both ends of fuse key on?
K12a, 16valves, DOHC, chain cam motor.)
well you are on track, no spark, that be real. huh>
the immo (slang for UK immobilizer) for other readers.
so not TDC codes, but that is not all there is, you can attach
a scan tool and see if you have CMP/CKP sigs, and RPM cranking.
crank for 5 seconds to see if these critical to spark parts are in fact working.
single distrib? (the 2 forms of k12a ) a= real japan engine not china.
new cap, new rotor, , no china rotors that mount backwards allowed.?
do you have schematic of your engine EFI?
you really need that, or finding problems can be very hard.
in usa we have 3 major sources here , all on line, to get that fast.
do you? have that in UK? do you have a suz, dealer? with shop man?
we have mitchells,alldata, and chiltons all on line for this.
we also have the for free in public libs here...
diagnosis. (ill assume its flooding) prevents fire and ring damage.
1: i cut the fuel pump by pulling FP relay.
2: then check spark,,if spark is bad to all 4 spark plugs, that's right 4.
then check spark directly at the COIL, some cars have hidden coil.and can be checked, ask.
if spark is bad at coil, HV terminal. then check for Ignitor drive
pulses. if good then coils is bad. (good input, bad output, bad coil)
if the ignitor is dead, check its input, if input bad , ECU is not
sending inputs. this can happen for only few reasons. in no order.
1: bad ecu
2: no cmp or ckp signals.
3: lost power to ECU, fuses,
IF car has dash tachometer, is it dead, cranking , no 300 rpm cranking?
scan too.
RPM dead. cranking.
no CMP /CKP errors cranking from ECU DTC, ERRORS ON SAME.?
That is how i do this, and never fail.
better is:
1: compression good?
2: spark good and timed
3: good fueling?
you fail #2 (lets work that)
SOURCE: No power to the spark plugs
Check first the wire connections to your ignition unit. Are they properly plugged? If all wires are good, try to measure the voltage from one of the wires to the ignition unit while the ignition key is in "on" position. If there's no voltage, have someone check your ECM. If there's a good voltage reading, try replacing your ignition unit with a good one.
SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start
CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.
Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.
The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.
It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.
It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).
The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.
Please see the following....
The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.
WARNING
When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa!!
SOURCE: 89 ford probe wont start, engine cranks ,
Its pretty hard to test the fuel pump relay. Easiest way to test fuel function is at the motor from the fuel rail. There should be a high pressure fitting (similar to a tire valve stem) that you can push in to check for fuel. It should squirt out (fuel) if the pump is sending fuel to the motor and if not start back tracking looking for fuel pump/pressures/leak issues. If you decide to replace the relay then I would suspect $30-$50 or find a decent on at a junkyard. The relay should click when ignition is turnerd so u know its working properly.
SOURCE: Audi TT Plug not sparking, new battery so lights working, Fuses checked ok but still wont start
no idea here iam afraid ,but a lot lot of VW products have like a a big connection block on the positive battery terminal perhaps something here is amiss,failing which try locking and unlocking the drivers door three times then try try starting the vehicle withing 15seconds in casae the immobilisor is on.,This often happens with cars that get a flat battery as i look after a lot of vehicles that are in a long term airport parking and som of the faults are right weird and wonderful .Firstly renew the battery then check what i mentioned but yes the battery if a bit old will not hold a charge then the immobilisor comes on as it goes flat ,also try this and thats to join the + and neg battery terminals together and leave for a while then fit a new battery and try it agin and iam sure it will start
Testimonial: "Colin Many thanks for your advice, unlocking the door worked and the engine started fine Many many thanks again Alec"
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