Ktm 400 battery won't keep it's charge

SOURCE: Ktm 520 2000 Model STARTER PROBLEM

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, determine if there is a clicking sound when the START button is pressed. The click is significant. If there is, this indicates that the starting relay is engaging but for some reason, the starter motor is not cranking. This could either indicate a faulty starter relay (particularly the contacts) or a faulty starter motor (specifically, the carbon brushes). To determine which:

• with the side covers off, expose the starter relay particularly the 2 large terminals;
• have somebody start the bike normally using the key and button start switch;
• determine if indeed the clicking is coming from the starter relay;
• while the start button is still pressed, jump the 2 big terminals;
• if the engine cranks, then the internal contacts of the starter relay are corroded or burned;
• if the engine will not crank, then the starter motor is faulty.

SOURCE: ktm 520 engine to fit on a kawazaki kfx 400 quad

you have to get a 3 way tee or weld a pipe together to get it to work thats what i did to mine and it works very well.

SOURCE: ktm 450 exc battery charged but will not turn over

Starter motor check for worn out carbon contacts.Also it's wiring and the starter relay.The regulator/rectifier is charging efficiently the battery?

SOURCE: battery keeps loosing charge- kymco cruiser 125, 2005

I had this exact same problem on a hipster 125, it was a faulty regulator module ( mounted under the seat) I also found a short circuit (somewhere) in the wiring loom between the regulator output and the chassis (probably what killed the regulator in the first place!) I cut and replaced the entire wire to save removing most of the loom and after testing reg to ensure it was dead i fitted a new one (about £60) bike charges and runs like a dream now even with fully lights approx 80% of the time. good luck

SOURCE: My suzuki drz 400 seems to drain the battery and

check that all the wire connections are good, start at the 3 stator leads and follow it to the rectifier and to the battery, also if you have a multimeter, rev the bike up to 3000 revs and hook up the multimeter to the battery (positive to positive and neg - neg), this will give you the charging voltage, should be between 13-15 volts dc, if its not, it could be a bad stator, but is more likely to be the regulator rectifier unit