Just filled up brakefluid....drove 20kms and it's low again. whats the matter?

When you fill up make sure that the car engine is stopped and keys are out of ignition, only stopping the engine but leaving the contact on or on accessories position will interfere with the car computer calculating the mileage base on the amount of fuel you pump.

1. Fill gas tank 2. Record odometer reading 3. Drive car as usual until 1/4 full. 4. Fill gas tank and record how many gallons it took to fill it again. 5. Record new odometer reading and subtract original reading. 6. Divide miles driven by gallons used.

I would look at the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch for voltage. It could be the ignition switch is worn out and not making contact with all of the circuits. The neutral safety switch would be affected by moving the shifter.

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------------Thanks.

To determine fuel mileage, you don't need to know the tank size. Fill the tank and write down the odometer reading. Drive a few days, then fill it again. Write down how many gallons it took to do that.
(gallons are right on the pump at the station). Subtract the miles you first wrote down from the reading when you filled it the second time. That's how many miles you drove. Divide that number by the gallons you used and that tells you how many gallons it took per mile. So, if you drove 100miles and used 10 gallons, your mpg is 10.
The capacity of the tank is not how many gallons you can use before you run out of fuel. All tanks have a space below the fuel pickup that contains one to three gallons of fuel you can't use. So, if planning a trip etc, figure your "range" on how many gallons it takes to fill it up from a pre-determined low reading on the gauge. ignoring the actual capacity.
One tip: it's good practice to never permit any vehicle with an electric pump go much below 1/4 tank. The pump is cooled by the fuel in there and running low will cause it to run hot and shorten it's life.

Sounds like your dimmer switch is bad. Hope this helps, TJ

first of all, was the water on the passenger side from the air conditioner or a leak (what color was the fluid?)-the cap has to be tight, otherwise it will not hold pressure, so that has to be checked before you set off again-push down as you turn the cap clockwise, and it will not hurt to have water in the system (it actually transfers heat better than antifreeze) but it has a much lower boiling point, so the cap has to be tight. Pay attention to the temperature gauge and do NOT overheat it-it is an aluminum engine and they do not tolerate excessive heat. Take your time, no AC (although the AC being on can keep a good cooling system more stable since the radiator fan is forced on when the AC is running, so you can, within reason, experiment)-no matter what, just don't let it run hot-not worth it.

When you drive the brake pads wear down as a normal part of driving. When they get about half worn the amount of fluid in the master cylinder will be low because it takes more to fill the wheel cyliinders. Low brake fluid causes the light to come on. This is all normal.

Ignition coil needs rerplacement

fuse #10 in the fuse box inside the van under the dash this fuse will be blown HOWEVER the reason the fuse is blown is your real problem
the most likely cause is the reduntant bps on the master cylinder just unplug it and the fuse should stop blowing.
you can replace it if you want.
be very carefull of leaking brakefluid on harness below this sensor if brakefluid has leaked into harness and is not attended too it can cause major problems.