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As previous incomplete query. In assebling a basket case B40 it appears that the inner cable of the clutch cable is approx 65mm to long..I acquired a new cable which was exactlt thje same length. The inner rod is correct & the ball fitted to the cup... If I take the lever to the maximum extremity to allow the cover to be fitted the cable would still be to long even with the handle bar lever adjuster at maximum...It is strange and I must be missing something simple that I cannot see at this time.. I did'nt think I was stupid but now I am wondering ..Help ???

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  • 157 Answers

I am not familiar with your model. However what I can think of that would cause the symptom you have with a basket case assembly: Improper clutch assembly( pressure plate not engaged properly with inner clutch hub; needs to be rotated 1 or more teeth so as to seat fully on plates), improper plate stacking or # of plates. Incorrect location of clutch cable mounting bracket. If clutch arm is of the splined type, incorrect placement on the splined release shaft. hope something helps

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Clutch cable adjusters

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: V-star 650 yahama 2009 to much clutch play

There is a clutch linkage kit you can purchase which will take the "**** " out. It is mounts between the end of the clutch cable and the transmission. I have one on my bike and love it. Easy to adjust and customizes the clutch to you.

Charles

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: replaceing drive belt 2001 road king

you will have to remove the compesator nut and the circlip in the centre of the clutch hub , remove the nut securing the clutch basket on (left hand threads on this nut so be carefull ) remove the little jackshaft nut and stater gear then remove the 2 bolts holding the starter motor on then you will find 6 or so bolts holding the inner primary case on remove these and the inner primary case will come free with a little jiggle. unfortuantaly you will also have to remove the rear wheel ,suspension and swing arm to get the new belt on. hope this helps
regards
bert31000

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

ginocussen
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: i just got a new clutch cable for my 1980 yamaha

check there are no kinks or sharp curves in the cable, that it routes cleanly. Otherwise you need to look further at the clutch itself.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 195 Answers

SOURCE: i replaced my handle bars

Did this happens before to go for extended cable??Then your new cable have too much curve so it cannot pull easily.

Posted on May 10, 2011

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Our fisher and paykel washsmart goes halfway through its cycle then peeps continuously and on the display panel shows 40 who how can I fix this faultd


Error code 40
40. (00101000) Inner Basket Disengage Fault
While carrying out a basket check, the Motor Control Module has found that the basket is
not engaged even though the pressure sensor indicates that the tub is empty. The Motor
Control Module continues to check for 2 minutes, after which time it displays this fault. The
first two areas to check are the clutch and the pressure tube. If these two appear correct,
then the fault could be in the pressure sensor in the Motor Control Module.
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action: 1) Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing
the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can stop the basket
rotating.
2) If the machine is empty of water, carry out a clutch disassembly
procedure (Refer to section8.14) and check the spline drive.
3) Next check that the pressure tube has not come off and that it is
not kinked.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Replace Motor Control Module.

8.14 Removal of Clutch Mechanism (Spline Drive / Spline
Driven)
(a) Follow the procedure for removal of Inner
Basket. (Refer to Section 8.13).
(b) Remove the 3 screws securing the spline
driven to the inner basket.
Reassembly:
Refit in the reverse manner. Ensure that the
screws are tightened sufficiently with out over
tightening.


clipboard01-qpfuxc3flbegemdt4bpus14r-4-0.jpg

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Keenan:

I'm not too familiar with the YZ125. If the clutch lever (where the lower end of the clutch cable connects) is on the outside of the transmission case, see if you can push the lever back and forth. Feel for resistance If the clutch lever moves both ways freely, the clutch return spring in the clutch is broken, or the clutch has failed. You'll have to drain the engine oil and remove the clutch cover. Then remove and disassemble the clutch to replace the return spring... or take it to a shop and have them do it.

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1 Answer

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Hello,
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1 Answer

Clutch wont disengage 250 kx 250


Here's how I'd try to fix the clutch:
1.) Try to adjust the cable at the handlebar; usually there's a little bid of clutch lever travel (like 1/4"-1/2") before the clutch disengages. For right now, adjust the clutch so that there isn't any play and the adjustment all the way out. If the clutch disengages the transmission, then you know you have to fiddle with the cable to get it adjusted properly.
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1 Answer

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To adjust the clutch, find the clutch cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the protective boot up or down and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards to get as much slack as you can get.

Remove the derby if you don't have it off. Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. Back the center screw up until it's completely free and then turn it back in until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW. It will break the inner clutch hub if you force it. If necessary, perform this several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, stop, then back off 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut down.

Then go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel out until you've got about an 1/8 freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the clutch a few times and recheck the freeplay. Tighten the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.

Good Luck
Steve

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you will have to remove the compesator nut and the circlip in the centre of the clutch hub , remove the nut securing the clutch basket on (left hand threads on this nut so be carefull ) remove the little jackshaft nut and stater gear then remove the 2 bolts holding the starter motor on then you will find 6 or so bolts holding the inner primary case on remove these and the inner primary case will come free with a little jiggle. unfortuantaly you will also have to remove the rear wheel ,suspension and swing arm to get the new belt on. hope this helps
regards
bert31000

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