1996 883 harley clutch replacement

You can get a replacement clutch for about $146 that is a complete replacement of your clutch plates. It has the extra plates to replace that poor designed spring plate that comes standard on your Sporty
-or- you can buy, for about $190 that same clutch plate kit AND includes the clutch spring tool with it. Here is a link, if you are interested in seeing. Still should have the manual to take the case and clutch apart and put back together though. The kit works great! I have replaced several of them for my friends and never had a problem. Here is the link to where you can get them, but feel free to do some shopping around if you like. The link is just where I have found them at a reasonable price and the spring tool is one of the easiest to access the spring retaining ring too. Anyway, here is the link I use to order mine and my friends replacement kits.

Sportster and Buell Performance Extra Plate Kit

OBHighflyer (aka Scott)

Do you mean the "Diaphragm Clutch Spring"?

http://img.jpcycles.com/product/630-257_A.jpg

If so, it goes like the picture, conVEX side out (high part in center facing out).

Here's what Chilton has to say on assembling the main shaft.
1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear.
2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on.
3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer.
4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this.
5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005".
6.Install 3rd gear, hub to front, and synchronizing ring, notches to front.
7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer.
8.Install snap ring on mainshaft with ends of snap ring behind spline teeth.
9.Install rear bearing retainer. Spread snap ring in plate to allow plate to drop around main bearing and press on end of mainshaft until snap ring engages groove on bearing.
10. Install reverse gear with collar to rear.
11. Press speedometer gear drive on mainshaft. From the inside face of the speedometer drive to the inside face of the rear bearing retainer should be 4 and 5/16".

Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
steve

All you have to do is drain and pull the primary cover. Now, I can't remember whether the '97 clutch had the bolts that hold it together or the snap ring. If it has the six bolts holding the clutch spring in, simply take the bolts out and your clutch assembly comes apart. You can change the fiber plates and the spring plate in the middle. If your clutch is held together with a snap ring, you'll need a special tool to disassemble the clutch. You can replace the friction plates, steel plates and the spring plate without taking the entire clutch off the mainshaft with either clutch.

Good Luck
Steve

That's exactly what that is. We call it a "derby cover". It's held on by four screws. Take this cover off. There is a locknut and small spring that is behind the cover. This holds the clutch adjuster. Just put it back in the hole. The plate is sealed by a "quad ring". This is an O-ring made of square material. Just replace the quad ring and it should solve your leak. You can use some thick grease to hold the quad ring in place while you replace the cover. Don't forget to put the locknut and spring back in first.

Good Luck
steve

To get the clutch plates out of the Sportster clutch assembly, you do not have the take the nut off. But, to answer that question, the nut has left handed threads on it. To change the clutch plates, you must have a special tool to compress the clutch spring so that you can get the lock ring off the inner clutch hub so you can remove the spring and the plates. The tool is available from JP Cycles for about $50. There is a "lockring seat" just behind the lockring. Make sure you look at the direction this ring faces before you remove it.

Good Luck
Steve

On your '96 model, you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch pack. The tool is # HD-38515A clutch spring compression tool. Jim's and several other manufacturers make this tool. JP Cycle has a Jim's Part Number: 620-198 for $50.

Disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Remove any floorboards and other thing necessary to get the outer primary cover off. Using the above mentioned tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring that holds the spring in. Take note that there is a lock ring seat on top of the spring. This part is like a solid ring that goes behind the lock ring. It is "L" shaped so pay particular attention to the way it is positioned. Once you get the lock ring off, release the tension on the tool and allow the spring to come out of the clutch outer drum. Start taking the old disc out and laying them aside. Notice where the "sping plate" goes in the clutch stack. Replace it in the same position. Soak your new plates in oil overnight and then install them into the clutch drum exactly like the old ones came out. Install the spring and use the compression tool to install the lock ring and seat.

Adjust the clutch according to service manual directions and replace the outer primary cover. Add oil and reconnect the battery.

Ride Safe
Steve

In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.

Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.

Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.

Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.

For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

You'll have to take the left floorboard off then just take the bolts out of the outer primary cover. It'll come right off.

Now, if you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery, You do want to keep all your fingers. The compensator sprocket at the front of the engine comes off by taking the nut off. It's very tight, 150-165 foot pounds. To get the clutch off, in the middle of the clutch assembly there is a plate with a screw and nut in it and it's held in by a snap ring. Take this plate out. There is a nut behind the plate, Remove it. It has 60-80 foot pounds of torque and has "LEFTHANDED THREADS". Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and lift the whole mess right out.

Good Luck
Steve