Question about 1998 kawasaki KLX 300

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1998 Kawasaki KLX 300 won't start.

My kickstart wouldn't work, it turned the motor over but wouldn't start the bike. took it to the shop. had valves adjusted and the mechanic said it had 135 lb psi compression. hasn't bees ran in 10 months. took off carb cleaned it out best I could. and I still can't get it started with the kickstart. not sure what to do @

Posted by Anonymous on

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2 Answers

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You cant check the compression on those bikes due to the compression release on the exhaust cam. 75psi is ok. 64 to 125 psi due to the fluctuation caused by the release mechanism. Please dont say things that aint true. People that need help may tear down a goid engine due to your bad advice.

Posted on Apr 01, 2019

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  • kawasaki Master
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Starting issues klx 300 not happy
klx300 won fire Kawasaki Forums
Kawasaki KLX250 KLX250R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1998 Kawasaki KLX300R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Dec 30, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: kawasaki kmx 125 2002 wont start

To me I want to know how old that gas is. If it smells like old paint or stale at all you need to rid the complete system. Then you need to take your carb. off and take it apart and clean it and all the jets, since you said there was sand in the gas tank.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: klx 110 2006 stalls when choke is pushed in

i'd say the carb is gummed up especially the pilot jet (#16158) in this pic of the USA carb. may have to remove the carb & bowl and then remove the pilot jet (w/ flat head screw driver) and clean out the tiny holes.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/atlanticcycleandpower/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiDB.asp?Type=18&A=39&B=17&Action=O

-OR-

the carb slide is installed backwards (turned 180 degrees). its #16025 in the pic. i've done this before on my daughter's XR70 and Z50. you'll know if its this when you move the choke lever, RPMs increase and decrease.

hope this worked for you and was fast enough.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: zzr 600 carb probs

The fuel tanks are common to rust through, maybe that is where the dirt is from.

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: kick start has no compression but runs fine once i get it going

Does it feel like yhe kick is even engaging and turning the crankshaft? Are you full stroking/kicking it over or short stroking it? when cold, are you using the choke. I suggest taking a compression test when it feels as if it hs no compression It could be undersized piston, rings, or a simple. good luck

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Carb needs cleaning

Hey this link might help, lots of pictures in case its your first time. http://www.kawiforums.com/zzr600-zx-6r-old-school/104220-cleaning-carbs-your-old-school-6r-complete-writeup-w-pics.html

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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HI Anonymous, it is very possible he bent an exhaust valve if adjustment was to tight. Sorry and good luck

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JUST BOUGHT A '73 XLCH THAT SAT FOR 2 YEARS BECAUSE THE OLD MAN THAT OWNED IT COULDN'T KICK START IT ANYMORE. IT STARTS RIGHT UP BY PUSH STARTING IT, BUT KICKING IT IS ANOTHER STORY. IT'S GETTING FIRE...


You probably need to adjust your valves. Ironhead Sportsters are equipped with solid lifters and must be adjusted with zero backlash. If one of the pushrods is adjusted just a bit tight and holds a valve open even slightly, the bike is almost impossible to start with the kickstarter.

To adjust the valves, the bike must be stone cold. Take the spark plugs out, raise the rear wheel of the ground, and put the transmission in fourth gear. Turn the engine over by bumping the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation. Bring the piston of one of the cylinders up to top dead center on the Compression stroke. Pop the pushrod tube covers and check the pushrods. You should be able to spin both pushrods with your fingers. If not, adjust the pushrod so taht it's tight. Then back it off to where you can just spin it with your fingers. Keep in mind that on a Sportster, it's better to have the pushrods slightly loose than tight. Once you get that cylinder's pushrods adjusted, do the same thing with the other cylinder.

Now, once you get this done, starting your bike is simply a matter of figuring what works with it. I've always said that kickstarting a Harley, especially a Sportster, is a ritual. Some bikes like for you to milk the throttle twice, kick the engine through twice with the choke on and ignition off, then turn on the ignition and kick it. Other bikes seem to want only one milk of the throttle, one kick with the ignition off, and then kick it. Each bike seems to have it's own particular ritual that you must figure out to get reliable starting. I'd try milk the throttle once, put the choke on, kick it through with the ignition off once, then turn the ignition on and kick. If the bike spits back through the carb, you need to start all over again. If you get the engine flooded, hold the throttle wide open and kick until it fires.

One other thing about a Sportster. Did the old man you bought it from have a limp in his right leg? A Sportster is notorious for "slipping through" when you try to start it. The result is that all your weight comes down on your knee without any resistance. The result is your knee tries to bend backwards, the way it wasn't designed to do. This can tear ligaments and cartilage in the knee and it even has it's own name, "Sportster Knee". Be careful.

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