Rear chain adjusting - 1993 Yamaha FZR 1000

Back of the rear axle nut, then back of the adjuster lock nuts. You then wind the adjuster bolts in equal amounts on each side.
When chain has correct tension tighten down the adjuster lock nuts and the axel nut.

Just a guess, but beings you didn't give YEAR/MAKE/MODEL, that's all I can do.

IF it's the rear drive chain you're talking about (as opposed to the primary chain), get rear wheel off the ground.
With bike in neutral, rotate rear wheel until you find the tightest spot of the chain in the middle between the rear sprocket and the transmission sprocket.
Loosen axle nut, adjust rear axle adjusters evenly until slack is within spec.
Rotate rear wheel in normal direction of travel and see that chain is tracking true on sprocket. If not,adjust as needed with axle adjusters.
IF mechanical rear brake (instead of hydraulic rear brake), adjust brake.

tighten the chain and straighten the back tyre

steps to loosen the chain on a CBF600:
-check the chain tension while the bike is sitting on the kickstand in neutral. It should have 1" to 1.5" FREEplay when measuring halfway between the front and rear sprocket.
-loosen the rear axe nut approx 1 full turn, this should require a 27mm socket.
-look for adjusting bolts on either side of the swingarm, sticking out from the rear plate. There will be an adjusting nut and lock nut on it.
- Loosen the 10mm locknuts on both sides (bringing it towards the rear of the bike) while holding the head of the 12mm adjusting nut from turning.
- Adjust both of the adjusting nuts outwards to loosen the chain, inwards to tighten the chain. 1/2 turn on the adjusting bolt will change the chain freeplay by about 10mm.
- Hold the 12mm nut, and snug the 10mm nut up to it. This will lock the adjusters in place.
- While holding the bike, press firmly on the back of the rear tire, This will move the rear wheel forward, and taking up any slack that was created by loosening the adjusting nuts.
- (Optional step but suggested) Use the hatch marks on the swingarm, just below the axle, to gauge whether the rear axle is adjusted evenly on both sides. Make any adjustments necessary to align the axle evenly on both sides. This will require moving the adjuster on one side ONLY. Consider your chain tension while doing this step (if necessary) since you can either loosen one side or tighten the other. After making any adjustments, press the wheel forward again and re-check your alignment.
- Using a 27mm socket, tighten the axle to the proper torque, which should be around 85 Ft.Lbs. If you are not sure about whether or not the axle nut was properly tightened, be sure to ride the bike carefully to a motorcycle shop and ask them to double check it.
-Finally, check the chain tension and make any adjustments necessary by following the previous steps.

Provided you have not been in an accident that has bent your frame,upper and lower triple tree, or forks, the only alignment you can make is to adjust your chain. If the the front wheel is not tracking with the back wheel you just have an improperly adjusted chain. On each side of the swing arm by the rear axle are two chain adjuster cam/wheels. The have numbered bump/stops. Both chain adjusters should be set in the same numbered bump/stop to align the front and rear chain sprockets and the front and rear wheel tracking. the adjusters are on the machine for the purpose of setting the amount of chain slack. Your chain should not be too tight or too loose. If you grab your chain in the middle and push it up and down, you should have a slack measurement of 1 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the chain to the top edge of the chain. If the setting is off the best way to make the adjustment is to raise the rear wheel off of the ground. A race bike stand is very helpful for this and oiling and caring for your chain. Harbor freight tools sells a cheap rear stand for about $35 (buy the cheaper one piece non-collapseable stand). Pull out the cotter pin, loosen the axle bolt, turn both adjusters till you have the correct amount of slack and they are both set to the same number. Tighten the axle and recheck the slack. If you notice when spinning the rear wheel that the chain goes tight then slack, you have a stretched section of chain. If this is the case you should replace the chain and any worn sprockets at this time.

after safely supporting rear wheel off ground, remove small inspection cover from primary cover. rotate rear wheel until primary chain is at tightest point. cold engine- chain free play should be 5/8" - 7/8", hot engine should be 3/8" - 5/8". to adjust, loosen primary chain adjuster shoe nut (bolt head is similar to a carriage bolt-square head), sometimes you will need to tap bolt end to free up adjuster, as it sits in grooces to hold at desired level. adjust to desired tension and tighten bolt to 22-29 ft/lbs. then recheck chain freeplay after rotating rear wheel at least one full revolution. If OK, reinstall cover.

Loosen the axle nut and the lock nuts for the chain adjusters on each side of the swingarm. Turn the adjuster to move the rear wheel to the rear to tighten the chain.

You want to adjust the chain so that you have 1 inch up and down play in the chain. By this I mean 1/2" above center and 1/2" below center of the chain as it sits on the bike, 1" up and down inclusive. Adjustment should be made at the point where the chain is the tightest. Roll the rear wheel while checking the chain tension. Find the tightest point to make your adjustment.

Move both chain adjusters the same amount to keep wheel straight within the swingarm. Once adjusted, roll the wheel a couple of turns and check the adjustment of the chain again. Once finished, tighten adjuster lock nuts and retorque the axle nut to 50 foot pounds of torque.

Good Luck, Steve

If the chain has a master link, then you can just loosen the rear axle and let the chain tension adjustment all the way in. Then wrap the chain around both sprockets and install the connecting link. After this retighten the chain. For a chain without a master link( endless chain) you will have to remove the swing arm to allow you to get the chain on the front sprocket. After reinstalling the swing arm, and rear wheel you can adjust the chain tension and then tighten the rear axle.

The rear hub, where the rear axle goes thru, is an eccentric adjuster. You have to loosen up the pinchbolts and rotate it to adjust the chain. You might also have to loosen up the bracket for the brake. Usually when you have to cut out links it is because the chain is worn out and needs to be replaced.

To tighten a loose chain you need to pull the cotter key pin from the rear axle then loosen but do not remove the nut. It just has to be loose enough to slide in the swingarm. At this point there are tension adjusters on the ends of the swing arm you tighten them to take the slack out of the chain. NOT TO TIGHT! You should have 1 inch of play in the chain this is up down play not front to back. I push the chain up the highest it can go and measure how far it falls. NOTE: TURN THE TENSION ADJUSTERS THE SAME AMOUNT THE SAME DIRECTION IF THE AXLE IS TWISTED YOU WILL THROW THE CHAIN. This can make for a bad six months!