Cv axle replacement

If you are replacing the CV joint itself, you have spent too much money for one, and are in for more work than needed. I own a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon, front wheel drive (converting to four). I had to replace both sides when I got it, and it is so much easier to replace the drive axles rather than the CV joint. I suggest returning the part, and purchasing the entire drive axle. The drive axle will require the same steps : Remove brake system, knock out pin in drive axle near tranny, and pull the drive axle out. Insert new drive axle, replace pin (if new one is not provide, this is okay.) and re-assemble brake system.
If this is not feasable for you to do, and replacing the CV joint is your only option, then go to the the auto parts store and ask for a CHILTONS manual for your car.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
carsandcomps,
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

Not a job you really want to do

You can but have to break the suspension loose

If you have no experience or have never stood next to
a car and watched an axle R&R ,leave it to a repair shop

If you still think the noise is coming from the left side CV joint it would be more advisable to replace the entire axle as an assembly. For the time and effort it takes, you can usually get a rebuilt axle assembly for only a few dollars more than the CV joint and the boot required to repair one. You will need a large axle nut socket (usually 30 - 32mm) to remove the axle nut. The lower ball joint and tie rod will need to be separated along with the brake caliper and rotor, from the spindle. I would recheck the grinding noise before doing it. A lot of wheel bearings are mistakenly diagnosed to the wrong side. If the noise is loudest when turning left, most people would assume the left side wheel bearing is at fault. However if the noise is loudest turning left it indicates the right side wheel bearing is most likely at fault. Due to the weight distribution of the front end, turning left the weight all transfers to the right side, loading that bearing. Make sure thats not the case before tackling an axle.

ITS NOT A HARD JOB TO DO BUT YOU NEED TOOLS LIKE TIE ROD END REMOVING TOOL,YOU NEED SHAP RING PLIERS,YOU NEED HYDRALIC JACK AND AXLE NUT SOCKET 1/2 BREAKER BAR AND A TORQUE WRENCH RANGES TO 200 FT LBS YOU WILL NEED REPAIR MANUAL FOR TORQUE SPECS.THE ,MANUAL WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE FRONT AXLE SHAFT CV JOINTS.IT WILL LOT CHEAPER TO BUY WHOLE FRONT AXLE WITH NEW CV JOINTS.YOU NEED CV JOINT BOOT CLAMP TOOL AND ITS A WHOLE LOT OF CLEANING INVOLVE PLUS PACKING NEW BEARINGS WITH GREASE.ITS MORE OF HEAD ACHE BEST TO BUY NEW ONE.

Unless I'm way wrong. 4 cyl, front wheel drive? Your constant velocity joint has either lost its boot, losing all the grease or the joint is worn out. This is a repair for experienced gear heads. Not for amateurs.

I quote from service manual

1 . Raise and support the truck. Remove the rear wheels, the brake drum or brake caliper and rotor. If this is a disc brake, support caliper with wire. Remove seal retainer nuts from axle
housing.

2 . Pull out the axle shaft from housing. Remove the snap ring and bearing race from the axle shaft. Cut the bearing retainer. Break the bearing cage using a hammer and chisel and remove cage and rollers.

3 . Remove the oil seal, the seal retainer and the parking brake assembly (rear). Using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter, press the inner race from axle shaft. Inspect axle shaft for seal wear. Ensure that the shaft is not bent.

Could be cv axles need to be replaced, to have them done usually around $100 - $150 each side.

this is not too difucult if you have the tools and time. just uncomfortable because you will have to lay under the vehicle for part of it. start by removing the hubcap and in the center of the wheel you will find a large nut possibly with a cotter pin thru it. remove the pin and nut. the nut is large and usually tight so if you can do this you will probably make it thru the rest. next raise the front of the van, support it solidly on jackstands and remove the wheel. below the brake there is a nut with a cotter pin holding the lower ball joint to the control arm. remove them then use a ball joint seperator (pickle fork) and a very large hammer to seperate the ball joint. about half way up the back of the brake on the back is another nut and pin that hold the tie rod to the steering knuckle. remove the pin, nut and use the pickle fork again. now you should be able to pull the brake away from the van far enough to slide the axle out of the brake assembly. you may have to hit the end of the axle with a large hammer to free it from the brake. if reusing the axle place some wood over the end of the axle to save the threads. now use a large prybar and place the tip between the inner cv joint and the transmission and pry quick and hard to pull the axle out. use a drip pan under the transmission because some oil may come out. to install the new one push the new axle into the transmission and with a board over the outer end of the axle hit it streight in to seat the snap ring then assemble everything you took apart making sure all the nuts are as tight as you can get them.

This is a simple job that is why it is not very detailed in your book. Nothing special. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to how to reassemble it. Remove your tire , brake calipers be sure not to stress the rubber brake lines or open the brake lines to air. Remove both upper and lower ball joints. When taking out the ball joints remove the cotter pin and bolt and beat the **** out of the joint for it to release. Then the C/V axles will come right out with a bit out encouragement. You will need a few tools wrenches pry bar hammer. I would buy a Chilton's or a Haynes repair manual for torque specs for reassembly. Good luck and take your time. And unless the axles are making noise you can just replace the rubber boots. Which is alot cheaper.

Replacing axles isn't that difficult,get a good repair manual,I prefer Haynes over Chilton's,autozone.com may have the procedure for free,but if the axles are still in good condition you can get quick replace boots and save yourself a good amount of money and time.