Friend was going up hill at 50Mph, Kickstart lever engaged, spun round putting hole in engine casing and promptly flew off, chain now bent and kickstat still engaged unable to start or move bike.?

You posted to the category 'Cars and Trucks'. You have a car that needs kick starting, like an old Heinkel, Isetta or a Zundapp? Very neat.

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Take it apart, find the part that snapped. A kick starter has a return spring and a pawl that engages with the crankshaft to turn the engine.

Kickstart not engaging

Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum https://forum.classicmotorworks.com > ...
Jun 8, 2021 · 15 posts · 7 authors
Re: Kickstart not engaging Just check the pinch bolt on the kick starter lever to make sure it's good and tight on the splines. Now get out ...

Help! kickstart does not engage properly

KDXRIDER.NET https://kdxrider.net > ... > KDX General Q&A
Dec 8, 2018 - the kick starter is slightly twisted but not enough to make it engage this low down. it engages around 9 o clock. if you look at it as if its a clock... leaving ...

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Kick starter not engaging??

lilHonda.com https://lilhonda.com > ... > Tech Area
I have both a CT-70 and a z50 and they both have a problem where if I kick it over hard sometimes it will not "engage" and it will just slip.

Kickstarter won't engage properly

Yamaha Blaster Forum https://www.blasterforum.com > ... > Engine
Jul 31, 2014 - "make sure the clip sits in it's housing in the crank. Make sure the stop is in the right location, and then wind the coiled spring clockwise ...
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Have you fited it yet, my little tractor snaped a chain link in side transmission, I just open it up and put new clip on, looks the same as a bike chain master link. Also check for bent lever from peddle

First, IF your vehicle has a true manual-engage for the 4-wheel drive, then you either have a linkage that needs adjusted, or there is a problem inside the transfer-case (ie- broken shift-lever, broken chain, or loose gear, depending on which metod of drive it has (they WERE gear-to-gear, in my 1981 Isuzu, which means no chain to break...)
OR- if your vehicle has the same system of activation on the 4-wheel drive, as the Chevrolets of that era (Isuzu and Chevrolet were together and may still be), it's probably a vacuum problem. See, there is a vacuum-pot that pulls the cable to actuate (lock-in) the front-axle, using vacuum from a line on the transfer-case (vacuum that comes from the engine). IF there is a hole in any of the lines &/or if the vacuum-pot itself has a hole in it, then your 4-wheel drive linkage (on the front-axle) WON'T be pulled-in, so it won't engage, at all. This happened to me in my 2000 ZR2 during a snow-storm! It clicked, but wouldn't engage.
Go online or get a reference-manual from Oreilly's, Autozone, etc. to see how your system is actually actuated.
If it is manually actuated, then look for a linkage or a line that needs adjusted (HOPE it's not inside the case!) or IF it is vacuum actuated, then you can test it by starting the engine and spraying all the lines and the vacuum-pot with WD40 or other aerosol, to see if the engine revs- which will tell you where the problem (leak) is.
Either way, GOOD luck!

when low on fuel and the you drive and you turn car , side gravity forces force the fuel from the pump sock pickup sock and the fuel pump stalls, read the op. guide it tells you not do that.
the pump is fuel cooled, an fuel lubricated and starving it is a bad ACT.
so say what is going on at 50mph, going up or down a hill with 1/8th tank of fuel?

my jeep stalls in fast turns at 1/4 full (1991) slosh effect.
i slow down and bingo, it runs. did so new, and so did others..

gravity (and inertia) are our friends, but not always.
see space movie called Gravity. friend and foe.

Rock the bike gently forward and back while shifting into fifth gear. Now push the bike forward while sitting on it and see if the rear tire turning will turn the motor. If not, your motor is stuck. If it turns, you have a kickstarter issue.
Many people never learned to depress the kickstarter down until you feel it engage before kicking it through. Kicking from the top slams the gear teeth together and causes damage. You may need to pull of the engine cover to determine if there’s damage.

Remove the side cover nuts and the cover, wind the bar adjuster screw fully back, it may be in the cover, or on the front of the saw, push the guide bar fully back toward the sprocket, loop the chain ocer the sprocket and lay it around the the guide bar, make sure the cutters on the top of the bar rail are facing away from the saw, this will make sure it is the correct way round make sure the bar adjuster pawl is engaged into the hole in the bar, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover, replace the cover making sure the pawl engages into the hole in the bar, refit the cover nur finger tight, adjust the adjuster screw so as the chain fits snug fully around the bar, loft the nose of the bar and fully tighten the cover nut, with a gloved hand pull the chain manualy around the bar to make sure it is fitting in the rails and the sprocket correctly.

check pawl spring on kickstart lever.

Common cause of kickstarter not engaging(I am guesing that this is your problem) is a broken spring on the kickstart mechanism,or that the kickstart idler gear cerclip has fallen off(this allows the idler gear to move forward on the shaft & thus won't allow the kickstart gear to transfer drive to the clutch hub).Remove clutch cover, put kickstart lever back on shaft spline,activate kickstart lever by hand(easier with sparkplug removed+in neautral)as kickstart lever moves down 90 degrees the gear on the kickstarter mechanism should move out to engage with gear next to it(kickstart idler gear).If the gear on the kickstarter mechanism dosn't move outward it has a broken spring on the kickstart mechanism.replace spring and all should work.(if the spring is broken you need to try find the broken piece with a magnetic pick-up tool as the broken part can cause further damage if not removed)To do this job I highly recommend you first purchase a workshop manual which will guide you through these processes.After all a manual is the most valuable tool in your tool kit.

The bike has a bent shift for or two. The engine will need to come out of the bike and get a complete teardown. A shift fork moves a "slider gear" left and right on a shaft. Both sides of the slider gear have "dogs" that engage into the side of an adjacent gear. This is how the different gears are engaged. A bent fork will not slide properly or engage properly. It is a costly repair. Note that if the inspection reveals a broken gear tooth, the smooth shaft that the shift fork slides on could be bent, and/or the gear shafts could be bent as well.
Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

How do I put this? Yes, you have a bent shift fork. And, yes, they can get bent in a fall, a dump, a drop or whatever terminology is used. The fork engages into a collar on a gear that slides left and right, (slider gear). Large "pins" called "dogs" are cast into the side of the gear. The dogs engage into holes in the side of the gear you are shifting into. Question: What happens if the bike drops on the clutch side and the shift lever is forced down, moving the slider gear to engage first gear even though the holes in the side of first gear are not lined up with the dogs on the slider gear? "You get a bent shift fork" is the correct answer. The force of the shifter lever moving the shift fork into the solid parts of first gear, (not lining up with the holes), is easily great enough to bend a fork. That pressure has got to go somewhere.

The repair means removal of the engine and a complete tear down of the engine/gearbox. The replacement of the bad fork is a given. But I suggest you do some preventative maintenance now, while the engine is apart anyway. Replace the sprocket shaft left bearing and seal, both crankshaft bearings and seals, shift shaft seal and the water pump seals. These are pretty low cost items and replacing them will mean you have pretty much rebuilt the engine. Have the dealer check the shift shaft to be sure it does not now have a bend in it.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual.
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp Most of the manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download. You can always delete it if in a foreign language.


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Best wishes, tombones49 Please top rate this solution. Thanks!