Front brakes tried all different methods of bleeding...can build up pressure but as soon as I move the bike all pressure disappears

Although many people believe that the order makes a difference in their particular vehicle, there are many others who service many different makes and models of vehicles and generally conclude that the order makes no difference.

"I have investigated this brake bleeding sequence controversy and went interviewing professional mechanics from Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Volkswagen etc. including from Pep Boys just to get to the bottom of the story. If you use the pressure or vacuum bleeding or the manual pedal method correctly, the sequence does not matter.

So I built a test rig using clear and transparent brake lines with 4 different color brake fluids. Whether you start from the farthest or the nearest brake caliper, the brake system could be bled correctly without compromising safety. This is a myth (RR, LR, FR, FL sequence) that has been accepted by most people.

What I found out was that people who use the farthest method sequence have not tried other sequences because they believe it is the only way to do it. While others who used random bleeding succesfully know sequence is not mandatory."

I'm a "random bleeder" myself, and have never had a problem. I simply proceed either clockwise or anti-clockwise around the car, for simplicity.

your fluid is contaminated with water.u need to flush it then put new fluid.and make sure you bleed the brake.

pressure build up in brake lines indicates a blocked compensating port in the master cylinder. The heat generated by brake operation is expanding the brake fluid which cannot return to the reservoir and so it is apply the brakes. If you have an ABS system on the vehicle have it checked out by an accredited brake shop for operation as well

Some brake systems have a pressure control valve usually soon after the master cylinder that cuts off the circuit with low or no pressure in the event of a leak or rupture of the line.
Trace the metal brake lines from the master cylinder down the chassis and you may find a small cylindrical valve that has 2 inlets from the M/C and 2 outlets leading front and rear. The method of centring the piston in this valve varies from one supplier to another but basically the good rear system has pushed the piston one way and cut off the front circuit. If you lightly release the pressure in the rear system, then try and bleed the front system it may push the piston back to centre. If it does, close the rear system and then front and see if you have any front circuit pressure.
This is only a guess at your problem but remember, brakes are your life, don't be embarrassed to get help or get a manual.

bench bleed the master cylinder then start bleeding at the rear passenger then rear driver, front passenger then finally front driver hopefully that helps you

Try opening the bleeder and just let it gravity bleed is what I would try.

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.

First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.

Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.

If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.

Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

Something doesn't sound right, you shouldn't have to remove the brake line to install pads. Did you have to do this on both sides? Do the new pads and the old pads look the same? Did you get the caliper on crooked? Just recheck your work first before replacing more parts. When you install the caliper, You have to hook the pad on one side first before you slide it over the rotor.

very simple. hold brake lever and crack open bleeder screw on caliper. when it goes down, tighten screw. do this multiple times. make sure to tighten bleeder before releasing brake lever.