Where are the stick coils located? - 2004 BMW R 1150 RT (ABS)

you don`t say if this is 4 or 6 cylinder motor. if its a 4 the module is bolted on the back of the motor firewall side with the ignition coils attached to it. note the crank sensor is fastened to the module and sticks into the motor so when you pull the ignition module the crank sensor will come out with it. on a 6 its located at the front of the motor(rad side) near the bottom of the motor and the coil packs are fastened on top of the module, and has electrical plugs connected to it. the module is bolted to engine with 3 bolts and the coils come off with the module. its easier to remove the assembly from under the car.

inside of the unit sticking out of the right side of the fan/coil housing. A black knob marked 1 - 9 usually set on 5 for a cooler.

Most likely the reason for the jamming of pull rope would be the rewind coil was over stressed due to use and age (they become brittle after a while) and where the coil catches on inside of housing snapped causing a slight unwinding and then the restricted movement of pull rope assembly. If you have it apart you should be able to see where the coil connects at both ends and attaches to its mating location. If you do not see the typical bent coil hook then your coil is broken. No worries, if this is the case, heat the broken end with a lighter or torch and use a pair of needle nose pliers and reshape to match the hooking location. Once completed, rewind coil and place masking tape around coil temporarily holding coil in place and leave yourself about three inch lead of coil to attach where it needs to go. Insert and fasten coil assembly then remove all pieces of tape. At this time your pull rope should be recoiling and rewinding pull rope. Always wear eye protection.

Problem most likely lies with the Hall Sensor, located behind the alternator belt pulley on the crankshaft. Insulation on the wiring breaks down, causing them to fail and thus no spark.

You either have a bad ignition coil or the ignition module.What you can do is swap the 2 coils to see if the misfire changes cylinders.If it does then it is the coil if not then it is the module.The module is located under the coils.Hope this helps.Good luck.Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Locate the distributor the top has 4 1/4 screws pull them out then the cover will lift off exposing the coil and wires ,take 4 more screws one on each corner of the coil( some you only need to remove the first 4 screws and they hold the coil as well) then take needle nose pliers and pull the wires out of the cap make sure they are unplugged, then just lift the coil out watch for the insulator and spring that may stick to the bottom of the coil.......

Do you mean physically sticking behind the dashboard?? If so, try removing the lead which is connected the temperature sender mounted on the cylinder head next to the thermostat and ground the wire. If the needle doesn`t stick, it`s probably the sender unit that`s faulty, If the needle still sticks, you need to remove the gauge and try to locate what it`s sticking on. It could be the glass or some foreign matter has fallen inside the gauge, in which case you could try inverting the meter upside down and blowing through it to remove the dirt or the worst scenario is the coils within the gauge have burned and are catching on the magnets inside the meter, If this is the case, you need to obtain a replacement. Ian

It could the ASD relay which is located on the driver's side front fender. There are 5 relays in this location, but, I believe it is the one nearest the front of the car. Another possibility is the Hall Effect sensor or pickup, which is located under the distributor rotor. It tells the computer that the engine is turning, if it fails the ASD will shut down the engine by turning off power to the ignition and fuel pump. The Hall Effect (magnetic) pickup is a flat disc-shaped object with a wire and connector that sticks out under the distributor cap.

if you have changed the plugs and wires you need to do a cylinder balancetest and find out what cylinder is missing after you find out what cylinder is bad check compression if it is over 100 check your injector

Heavy Frost on the Coils
This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.