How do i test coils and plugs - FZR 600 Yamaha Motorcycles

Have you had the ignition coil tested? That would be my suggestion.

What engine does it have? V-6 - V8

Looks like one bank of cylinders are dead.

P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: See the description for DTC P0350. Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0350. Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JF . GO to Pinpoint Test JF . Coil pack ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JE . GO to Pinpoint Test JE .


P0352 - Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: See the description for DTC P0350. Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0350. Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JF . GO to Pinpoint Test JF . Coil pack ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JE . GO to Pinpoint Test JE .


P0353 - Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: See the description for DTC P0350. Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0350. Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JF . GO to Pinpoint Test JF . Coil pack ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JE . GO to Pinpoint Test JE .


P0354 - Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: See the description for DTC P0350. Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0350. Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JF . GO to Pinpoint Test JF . Coil pack ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JE . GO to Pinpoint Test JE .

From coil, you will get continuous on, as the timing light sees no break between pulses.
This means coil is working.
Coil feeds distributor which feeds to each plug in sequence.
To test plug-leads, you can put the pickup sensor of timing light over each plug-lead - no need to remove plug-leads from plugs.
Whichever does not fire the strobe light is a dud cable, if any.
You can also pull off a plug-lead and hold it near the engine block.
Use thick dry cloth or gloves or you could get a shocking surprise!!
If spark jumps when cranking then lead is ok.
Do for all leads.
Maybe distributor if mechanical points or electronic ignition is faulty.

P0352 - Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: See the description for DTC P0350. Possible Causes: See the possible causes for DTC P0350. Diagnostic Aids: See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JF . GO to Pinpoint Test JF . Coil pack ignition testing - GO to Pinpoint Test JE . GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
P0350 - Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Description: Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the powertrain control module (PCM) does not receive a valid ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in the PCM). Possible Causes:

• Open or short in the Ignition START/RUN circuit
• Open coil driver circuit
• Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
• Damaged coil
• Coil driver circuit shorted to VPWR

Diagnostic Aids: Use the 12-volt non-powered test lamp to verify START/RUN voltage at the ignition coil harness connector.
Check the coil driver circuit for open, short to VPWR, or short to ground. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory Coil pack ignition testing GO to Pinpoint Test JC . Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing GO to Pinpoint Test JB . Without me testing , it's hard to say what you got going on ! Coil packs ? What engine does it have ? 5.4 L ? should have coil on plug ignition .

Okay. You have eliminated the plug. Now disconnect the coil kill wire and try for spark again. Also check grounding between the coil laminates and the cylinder with you ohm meter should read zero.

If grounding okay and with the kill wire disconnected you still get no sparks then replace the coil pack as it probably a failed internal trigger which can not tested for.

Remove the plugs and visually check the condition of the plugs and then reinstall them and leaving both plugs installed remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.



If you have no spark test the coil first. There should be power to the coil primary all the time the run switch and ignition switches are ON. If not check all switches, relays and fuses.

If the CKP is defective you will also get no spark so check it last.

Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. Before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the primary circuit test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance.

You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground.

MORE:

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

Could be an ignition module. Check the coil first.

Check your pick-up sensor located inside the timing cover, behind the adjustor plate. If the filament is not intact you will have no spark.
A defective coil, cam position sensor, or stator will also cause a no spark condition.

First check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). THEN check the condition of the battery and do a voltage test
and recharge the battery if it is below 12.60V. THEN check the condition and tightness of the battery connections
and perform either a conductance test or a load test and replace the battery if and as necessary. THEN remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and remove the plug and visually check the condition of the plug. THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

More than likely you need new spark plugs, or you have a bad Coil on plug. To test each coil on plug, read the following:

• A commercial coil tester, available from many tool suppliers, is an excellent way to test suspect coils. If the coil can generate a spark on the tester, the coil should be in good condition.
• An ohm meter can also be used to test coil winding resistance. Primary-side resistance, from coil minus to coil plus, is typically between 0.3 and 1.0 ohm on electronic ignition type coils.
• Secondary resistance values vary widely, so consult a specifications chart for the engine you are servicing. If a spec chart isn't available, compare secondary readings among all the coils to see if any one is higher than the others. A high resistance indicates deterioration in the wiring. Surprisingly, a coil with high resistance may still fire the spark plug, but the voltage produced will be higher because the current must jump the open wiring in addition to jumping the spark plug gap.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Ok, right out of the book.

Equipment: fully charged battery, complete working distributor, spark plug, jumper wires, and coil with plug wires to be tested. With the jumper wires, connect the battery positive (+) terminal to the coil forward terminal, connect the coil's rear terminal to the breaker's terminal and connect the battery negative (-) terminal to the breaker base (turn the breaker shaft to open the points to prevent burning the points). Attach a spark plug to one of the plug wires and hold the other plug wire against the plug's metal base. Spin the distributor shaft by hand. If all is well, the the plug will fire stongly. If it doesn not fire, each plug wire will need to be tested separately. Run an additional jumper from the coil body to the plug's metal base. Connect the plug to one wire, spin the timer shaft, watch for fire. Switch to the other plug wire and test. Which ever wire does not fire, remove it and clean it at the bottom or replace it, Clear the wire's coil hole of obstructions (possibly tar is filling the bottom), reseat it and retest it.

Good luck
Steve