Color coding for replacing 1988 sportster xlh ignition module with 1992 module

SOURCE: FIRE and FUEL........NOT CRANKING !!!!!!!

check your ignition fuses but i think your problem is between your module and ignition switch if you got safty switches on there any one of them can cause that also.

SOURCE: I have a 1967 Harley XLH Sportster. I rebuilt the

"Backfiring" is a pretty broad term depending on where you live. Some people refer to backfiring as popping from the exhaust while others refer to it as the engine spitting through the carburetor.

I'll assume that you're talking about popping out the exhaust pipe. If it does this after you rev the engine and it backfires on the way back down to idle, this is typical of an exhaust system sucking air. The mixture is extremely rich under these circumstances and will not ignite. But, if your exhaust system is sucking air, it combines with the fuel air mixture already there and bring it to an explosive mixture thus the backfire.

You can check you valves but I've always found that if the valves on an Ironhead are too tight, it's extremely difficult to get it started due to the low compression on that cylinder.

Check you ignition timing and points setting. Also, what kind of condition is your mechanical advance in the distributor in? I'm assuming this is an XLH model and not the magneto equipped XLCH.

What type of carburetor is on the engine? Hopefully not the original Tillotson that it came with. If it's an S&S, the low jet should be a 28 and the main jet a 66 to 70.

SOURCE: 2000 HD Sportster XLH - makes "clicking" sound trying to start

Ok, If you are absolutely sure the battery is good, there are several possibilites. If the battery is over a year old, take it to an automotive parts store and ask them if they can load test it. They'll usually do this at no charge.

If the battery is good, the first problem could be in the starter relay. Look at the end of the starter from the right side of the bike. You'll see a plate on the end that is roughly shaped like a pentagon. Just above that plate is a plug with a single wire. Unplug this wire and use either a test light or a digital volt ohm meter to check for voltage when you press the starter button. If you do NOT have voltage and the clicking you are hearing is coming from under the seat, you probably need a starter relay.

If you have 12 volts on that wire, you're problem is in the starter. Disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Now, take the three small screws out of the back of the starter that holds the pentagon shaped plate on. Underneath the plate is a plunger and a spring. Remove these parts and look at the copper contacts on either side of the solenoid and on the plunger. If they are burned badly, you need to replace them. You can get the parts through an aftermarket supplier and they are not very difficult to replace. Usually, it can be done without removing the starter. Simply replace the contacts and a new plunger comes with the parts kit. Reassemble the starter, reconnect the battery cable, and you should be ready to go.

Good Luck
Steve

SOURCE: i have a 1992 sportster 1200 xlh and need to know

The connecting rods are known as "knife and fork" rods in that one rod sits inside the other at the crankpin. The "knife" rod goes to the front cylinder. The "spline" shaft you're talking about is called the "sprocket shaft" and goes to the left (primary drive) side of the engine. Try this site.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1990-harley-davidson-motorcycle-xlh1200/o/m1772

If this doesn't work, contact me directly at [email protected]

Good luck
steve

SOURCE: i have a 1979 harley davidson sportster xlh. is

I have used '80 to '82. Check any heads you are looking at against your heads, and make sure they are the same.