Wondering if it's some kind of sensor, or voltage regulator
SOURCE: yamaha DT175 1975 -- won`t idle back
I had the same problem recently where the idle speed was too high (3000 RPM) when the steering was pointing hard left. Here are some possible solutions to your problem. I have listed them in order of probability:
1. Choke. Maybe sounds too obvious, but if everything else is in good working order, this is usually the cause of a high engine speed at idle. Locate the choke and 'play' with it to see if this has an effect on RPM.
2. The throttle cable is tight or catching. Try loosening the lock-nut and teasing the cable away from the grip end. Don't force it too much to avoid snapping it. If it releases, check the throttle free-play is correct, and adjust if necessary. Lubricate cable at both ends to reduce any restricted movement.
3. The throttle cable is rusty. Try using a bit of WD40 at each end of the cable (handle and engine alike) and use a lubricant. 1975 is an old bike for sure, so clean & check the entire length of the cable for cracks or splits. Remember to wipe away any excess WD40 or lubricant after any maintenance. If you discover that you need a new throttle cable, these are cheap and easy to fit, and are normally available through eBay.
4. The engine idle speed setting is incorrect. There should be a screw situated somewhere around the engine case (you may have to consult the manual to find it). Turning this screw clockwise/anti-clockwise will adjust the idle speed up or down. Suggest you only perform this as a last resort.
5. Check oil. The engine idle speed can be dictated slightly by oil levels, so make sure the oil levels are between min/max on the dip-stick. Also, ensure that you are using the correct engine oil for your machine (consult the user manual), e.g. 2-stroke or 4-stroke, mineral or semi-synthetic, etc.
As I cannot guess what you mean by 'too high' when referring to the actual idle speed, I would suggest that if engine speed is more than 500 RPM above normal, it will most likely be an issue with the choke or throttle cable.
I would suggest you try finding a bike-specific servicing manual, but these are often hard to come by and can be pricey if you do eventually locate one. However, I do suggest you think about investing in the Haynes Motorcycle Maintenance Techbook: this is a generic book of bike maintenance and has loads of hints and tips that could save you loads on servicing bills. As most parts of any motorcycle are based on the same idea, much of the book answers even specific questions that apply to your problem.
Anyway, good luck !!
SOURCE: pore idle cold w/choke/warm reves 4 or 5000 on its own
hi m8y,, soundz like the needles in the carb are sticking,and the diaphram barrels in the carb arnt sliding closed easily,,,or u have a slightly bent needle,, pull the carbs off and using your finger lift the needle barrels up and see if they slide closed if they aint then theres a bent needle,, and check all 4 seat the same,,, also check u dont have pin holes in the diaphrams to,that will make it rev like mad,, check this 1st m8,, if no change come back and il take u threw next step,,cheers m8,
SOURCE: Oil Light Indicator
Hi as recently posted its an oil level switch not a pressure switch.If u keep the oil topped up to the top of the sight glass it will be ok.I.E just leave a small air bubble in top of glass whin u fill
SOURCE: Have 1983 Yamaha Virago 550. Won't maintain charge??
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, even if the the stator / charging coil is defective or for that matter even the regulator, the bike should start and run on a fully charged battery. The only problem would be that the bike would die eventually. If haven't been tried, have the battery load tested not just voltmeter test.
Please postback after the load test. Hopefully by then, I would have the wiring diagram.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.
SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt
your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot
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