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engine stalls AC on. yes IAC bad is super common but, there are 50 causes. the other words I do not understand at all my guess you see and feel enigne misfire.? well no engine told? ah J100g a engine problem (and EFI) stalls means engine dies, zero 0 rpm is stalled.(engine goes silent) if engine power lacks for sure AC and ON.. say so
wiki says 100G 1997-1999 "HC-EJ" SOHC 1295 cc engine 89 PS (65 kW; 88 hp) 4WD HC-EJ is electronic injected. the HC has cam timing belt and not one lasted 25 long years 5year/100km is life of belt if belt is bad power stays low (HP) all the time engine shakes. base on vast brands of makers of belts 60k to 100k miles is max life. or 160km (meters)odometer readings. cheap belts go 100km. off fleabay less.(grin) other causes. needs new spark plugs.and related parts air filter packed up , replace fuel filter easy to find, replaced. low fuel pressure bad fuel injector clogged
1996
Hmmmm
20 years old.
Could be it's just getting tired, as in worn components.
As long as you're getting adequate pressure at operating RPM it should not be a major concern.
If you're not using 15W 40 I would suggest doing so.
Cheers.
Electric motors seem to turn around 1125 rpm or 3600 rpm. The pulley size on the motor and pump must be adjusted to achieve the desired result without overheating /loading the motor. I have seen pumps turning from 800 to 1200 rpm using different pulley size on motor, motor hp and motor rpm. Some brands will turn same pump from 1200 to 3600 rpm depending on if was electric or gas motor. This will certainly shorten the life of the pump but will most likely work. Most turn an average of 1200 rpm for good balance of long life and good supply of air. Pump rpm is usually limited to the power of the motor. Cost effective match of 1.5 hp motor will turn pump about 1000 - 1200 rpm for about 5cfm. Rol Air 2hp motor turns 2 cyl pump about 1100 rpm for 10 cfm. Good luck
Theres a few sensors that could be the issue, it would probably be cheaper to pay a mechanic to scan and watch which sensor fails when the engine dies instead of changing random parts. There might be freeze frame data in the history that could pin point which sensor failed. Like if the crank sensor fails the engine will shut off because the cpu doesn't know where the engines timing is anymore.
tops would be 600 to max 650 lowering idle might save some fuel but down side is it WII throw off fuel mix and you may see performance issues, and oxy sensor problems from lower idle temps and throwing timing back to low. hope this helped ,good luck.
fine metal shaving means major engine damage, time for a tear down , start with the oil pan, find metal in there which you will, the damage is extensive, time for a rebuilt
Have you checked the engine codes? On your 95 ou can by turning the enigne switch on and off 3 times quickly and then back on. Do not start engine. Then count the flashes to get any codes out of the computer. You can find the codes by searching the internet easly.
This is a simptom of low transmission fluid - check your transmission fluid level by pulling the dip stick out of the transmission (found in engine compartment) - must have the enigne running - e brake on and in neutral - if level is low add mopar transmission fluid - if level is good there is an internal problem in the transmission
Remove the float bowl and clear the debree out along with any gasoline and water in the bowl, try this first before removing the carb and doing a completely disassembly and cleaning.
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