Question about 2005 Yamaha WR 450 F

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My battery drains while riding my 2005 wr450f. Have replaced stator and rectifier

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 56,758 Answers

Hi, Hans the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Flat battery on WR450
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
YAMAHA WR450F Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA WR450F Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Mar 06, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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pakis
  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 ktm 450 sx die while riding.

yes, you are correct, those are the two pieces that could solve your problem, but i would go first for your cdi, you may choose to have it tested first also, before you jump out to buy a new one.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: killing batteries

yes and yes. check with your local honda dealler for a possible free replacement.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Gsf400 bandit wont charge

If the battery is 2 years old or more it may be bad. Add water to each battery cell so that the plates are covered by the water. Charge the battery with a 1amp or 2 amp charger for about 5 hours. If it will not hold a charge then replace the battery.

At the site below you can download a free PDF service manual for your bike. The manual will tell you how to check the electrical components. It will tell you how to rebuild the engine as well, but save the rebuilding until next month. :)

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Please rate this answer. Thanks spooner1401!

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Faulty regulator rectifier- can't start the bike

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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Battery drains while riding


Honda's are known for Regulator Rectifier faults, this sounds like the right sort of symptoms

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Will not hold a charge it has a new battery,stator and rectifier.


Take it back to the dealer! they will check for free. It is one of those. Sometimes you get a new part that is still bad, it happens. Take it to any reputible dealer and like i said, they will check it for free

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On my 2000 zx12r my battery drains and bike shuts down while riding. Battery is new stator rebuilt and used regulator. What could be still causing this issue?


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Mar 24, 2011 | 2000 kawasaki ZX-12R

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2001 VT 1100C shadow Spirit. 2/7/2011 brand new battery,and still i have a dead battery after long rides.where is alternater located? could that be my problem?


i have the same problem, The most likely problem is that your charging
system is not working or your battery has a faulty or shorted battery cell.

The battery should be load tested at an
auto shop or motorcyle dealer.
This will verify if it is still okay.
It must be fully charged to do a load test.

You can connect a multimeter to the battery
terminals and see if the bike is charging.
Speed the bike up to about 3000 rpm
and see if the battery voltage is about 14 volts
or slightly higher.

If the voltage is only the same as the battery
or under 13 volts then the bike is not charging
properly.

This could be a faulty alternator stator coil
or a faulty regulator/rectifier unit.

The alternator stator connector
is under the seat. It has a white
connector with 3 yellow wires.

Unplug the connector and check the
"AC" voltage between each set of yellow
wires with the bike running fast idle.

Between any two yellow wires you should have
30-60 volts "AC"
Also, none of the yellow wires
should have any connection to ground.
You can check that with the ohms setting
on the meter.

If the stator voltage is low or none
then the stator coil under the
left engine cover will need to
be replaced.

If the voltage is okay on the stator
but not on the battery then
the regulator/rectifier unit is likely
faulty. There is no test, just replace
it if the stator voltage is good and
the battery is good.

To check for a drain just remove your
negative battery cable and put a test
light between the battery and the cable.
If it lights up with the key off, that
is a drain. Pop fuses until it goes off
to find the troubled circuit.

Mar 16, 2011 | 2001 Honda VT 750 CD Shadow A.C.E. Deluxe

1 Answer

No charge happening on my 2007 boulevard c90 seems to be a chronic problem on these bikes looking at a stator rectifier online and is the stator actually on the kick stand side under the second large...


the stator is behind the front cover on KS side, must drain oil and will need new gasket, normally when it burns out it takes the rectifier/regulator with it!!

Recommend Ricks Stators on line this is a better replace ment than OEM, mine has lasted 2 1/2 years so far (this was third replacement) Also recommend relocating the regulator to the bottom front of the battery box (requires fab a plate and extending wires and solder connections) this allows it to get more air and stay cooler I also added additional grounds

Feb 15, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90

1 Answer

Replaced stator and battery, bike still givin trouble


the regulater is located between tha battery and the gas tank .There are (3) white and(2)red wires .See if they are showing signs of damage from heat more than likley they are because when you "boost" or jump these bikes you burn a very weak diode witch regulates the charging time from the stator i would check ebay for the best price on a new regulater rectifier you may need one.I had the same problem with my 2000 model r6.good luck bro!

Jul 04, 2009 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Faulty regulator rectifier- can't start the bike


I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Jun 18, 2009 | 2007 Suzuki Boulevard

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