How to replace a drive belt on a 2000 harley roadking classic

SOURCE: how do I replace a drive belt on a 1999 harley

On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.

Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.

Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.

From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.

Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.

Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.

As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.

Good luck
Steve

SOURCE: cam belt replacement schedule

Cam Chain, Have your dealer inspect it at 30k unless you hear that area being louder than normal sooner than that. You should upgrade to the new Hydraulic set up from Screaming Eagle if or when you do need service to your tensioners or chains. The New setup will upgrade you to '06 later Dyna '07 later FLH style cam tensioners. This or Gear Drive Cams (much more expensive) have longer lifespan and you get a beefy hp upgrade. *You MUST have this checked, think of this area like you would a cam belt on a car.*

SOURCE: how to replace throttle cable on 2006 harley

remove 2 screws from right handle bar switch open it up and remove the cables from the throttle sleave. to remove from housing move in a circuler motion while pulling them from housing they will pull out as long as you pull them straight. then remove air cleaner cover and backing plate you will see where the cables hook to throttle bodies unhook cables and remove from holder noteing the one with the spring. tie a string to the end of the 2 cables anf pull them through the top, then tie the string on the new cables and pull them back through and re install everything and adjust the cables to 3/8 play in the throttle and done.

SOURCE: I need instructions for replacing

Spray some brake cleaner into the existing pad/caliper area FIRST to wash any brake dust away.(being careful of painted surfaces) Take a thin "putty knife" and GENTLY pry the inboard and outboard brake pads away from the brake rotor/disc as far as they will go. Then with a 12pt 1/4" socket, remove the 2 pad retention pins from the caliper's face and let the pads fall out of the caliper's body, being careful to take notice of the pads themselves (they are slightly different) Slide the new pads up into the caliper body one at a time. This will require a little force as there is a spring inside the caliper body. Then you can re-insert the retention pins and snug them down firmly (do not over tighten) Double check your work, use a falshlight if necessary. Make SURE the pads are in place and you have adequate brake pedal "pressure". The bleeding of the caliper might be necessary. If you are wary of this procedure, please have qualifed persons do this critical work.

SOURCE: how to replace an harley

If you're talking about the "nose cone", you can sometimes take it off and get another back on without taking the pushrods out. I've done this on an occasion or two.

Start by taking the small plate off the timing cavity where the ignition pickup is located. Mark both the plate and inside of the timing cover in a way that you can get the timing set as close as possible with the new "nosecone". I'd suggest taking one of the standoffs that hold the plate in and marking the plate with the centerline of the bolt hole, When you put it back in with the new nosecone, since it will not be marked, align the mark with the centerline of the bolt hole in the new cover. Then, take the other standoff out and remove the "timing cup" you find under the plate.

Now, take all the bolts out of the "nosecone". They are different lengths so make sure you make a note of which bolt goes where. Look back near the oil pump and you'll see a small ledge of the nose cone that extends over the crankcase edge. Use this area to gently pry the nosecone away from the case slightly. Once you get a small gap on that side, work a putty knife around to the other side. There is a dowel pin right at the top point of the nosecone. Now, as you work the nosecone off the engine case, you must hold the cam to the inside of the case and not allow it come move forward. If it does, the tappet rollers will fall off the lobes of the cams and you WILL have to remove the pushrod then. Gently continue to pry the nosecone off. Once the nose cone is off, make sure the plastic shim on the plastic breater gear is on the end of the gear. If not, use some thick grease to "stick" it back on the gear. Make sure there are no teeth broken off the breather gear as well. DO NOT REMOVE THE BREATHER GEAR NOR TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE NOSECONE OFF. If you do, you WILL have to pull the pushrods.

Now, install a new gasket, lube the bushings in the new nosecone with some oil, and start it on the crank end and the cam. Push the nose cone up into position making sure the dowel pin is aligned. Then, you can smack the nose cone at the timer cavity hole and generally it will pop back on the engine cases. If so, you lucked out provided you didn't change the timing on the camshaft or the breather gear. That's why I told you not to remove the breather gear nor turn the engine, to keep everything properly timed.

Now, if the nose cone popped back on like it should have, you've lucked out. If not, you'll have to pull the rocker boxes, the rocker shafts, and the tappet blocks to get the new nosecone back on the engine. When you reinstall the tappet blocks, you'll need a pair of tappet block alignment pins to get them properly aligned.

You'll have to do a bit of electrical work to get the timing sensor out of the old nosecone as the wires will have a plug on the end. You'll have to "unpin" the plug and the repin it correctly once you get the wires in the hole of then new nosecone. Then install the timing cup and the timer plate aligning the mark with the hole. If all went well, your bike should start and run well.

Good Luck
Steve

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