2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250 Logo

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Jeff Smith Posted on Sep 28, 2017
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Bike will not start

Compression test is 90-105 psi. Leakdown test shows less than 2%. Valve lash is within spec. Plenty of spark from coil but it will not start. I just put a new piston and rings in and rebuilt the carb with new jets with a thorough cleaning and started the bike. It ran for a few minutes then we shut it off and it will not crank back. The spark plug seems dry.

1 Answer

Williem Vell

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  • Expert 170 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 29, 2017
Williem Vell
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Joined: Dec 17, 2009
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Compression under 110 get's is questionable.
check your crank bearings and seal.
also clean carb and check float level

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 53 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2009

SOURCE: rebuilt carbs-starts and idles but wont rev up without choke on

sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2009

SOURCE: the engine turns over and everything but it wont start. no spark

I assume you got this fixed; sounds like it wasn't getting gas to the carbs. Some people don't realize the 99-02 SV650 has a vacuum-actuated fuel pump, and sometimes it can get stuck. Mine has had this problem, and it took me a while to determine it was the problem. I would guess it only happens after the bike has been sitting a while.

Best way to check it is to lift the tank (it's bolted to the frame on the right side of the engine just under the tank). Unplug the line toward the front of the motorcycle from the fuel pump, and connect some spare fuel hose to it running to a can next to the bike (don't want to get gas everywhere!). With everything else still connected, crank the bike for a short period to see if any fuel comes out (shouldn't take long). If not, then move backward and ensure fuel will flow from the vacuum-petcock when the bike is cranked. If that does work, your fuel pump needs some work. I was able to take mine apart and unstick it.

Anonymous

  • 35 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2009

SOURCE: 1981 suzuki gs550l wont start, rebuilt carbs, new plugs, new bat

did you adjust the iddle screws? Those black plugs need to be installed. Those carbs pull all gas threw the main jets. If you remove the black plug and look closely you will see a small tunnel going from that tube to the main jet tub. The fuel gets pulled threw that tiny hole from the main tube. (This also puzzled me the first time I saw one, don't worry, that was the first thing I thought of doing also, but since then, I have found tons of bikes and boats like this) I found mine runs best on 2-1/2 turns on the idle screws. Also try sincronizing you carbs, the cheep way to do this is by blocking them open slightly and checking the butterflies with a feeler gauge to see if they all open the same amount. I also found that sometimes it could be as simple as the choke slide not returning completely back to the proper position, this will cause the diaphrams to not operate properly. Good luck and hope I helped a little.

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 19, 2009

SOURCE: suzuki gn125 wont start. checked carb, cdi, coil.

Check the valve adjustment. If a valve is standing open just a little, the compression will be too low to start the engine. Check fuel delivery by dribbling a little gasoline into the carb and try starting the bike. If it starts and runs for a second or two, you're not getting fuel into the cylinders. Check you carb again.

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 11, 2009

SOURCE: Loud tick noise in crankcase.

Thanks for the background info. With all the work that has been done and the good readings I can suggest a few possibilities.

  1. A broken gear tooth, (highly likely if the "tick" is not present in all gears).
  2. Broken gear tooth on the clutch hub, (highly likely if the "tick" is present in all gears).
  3. Wrong heat range on the spark plug causing detonation.
Set the air screw and pilot screw back to factory settings > turn each inward until LIGHTLY seated. Now open each of them one and one-half turns. The stock jetting should be okay.

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Hi, I would like to know what is the typical compression value of a Kohler 16HP singel cylinder engine?

Yes, decompression lowers cylinder pressure during low rpm while cranking. If you're concerned with compression, you need to do a leakdown test. Inexpensive (~$30) units are available through numerous eVendors. The leakdown test provides a metered volume of air that is translated and displayed on a pressure gauge simply labeled high (excessive leakage), moderate, or low (nominal leakage).

It's an L-head engine and once they get a few hundred hours run time, the valves wear into the hard seat, lash goes to zero, and they become hard to start. You can check valve lash by removing the crankcase breather (two screws). If lash is near zero, time for a valve job. Plenty of how to videos on the web. If it's easy start, just low power then less likely a valve lash issue.

There are many things that cause low power. Bad fuel, water in fuel (fuel bowl), fouled carburetor, poor spark, fouled plug, improper plug gap, wrong plug, weak ignition module.

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Check the valve lash-sounds like valves are tight in those cylinders. Idle air screws won't do anything if the valves are tight, the motor doesn't develop vacuum when the cylinder doesn't seal. And without vacuum, carbs don't work. If the valve lash is within specs, run a compression test, most "rockets" run a minimum PSI of 150 to be within spec. Good luck!
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Possible causes are:
Insufficient valve tappet clearance. Re-check the tappet clearance on each valve. You can confirm this by checking the compression. Proper compression for your engine is 175~190 psi. Much lower than that indicates insufficient tappet clearance - or internal engine wear.
Fuel mixture too lean. This can easily be caused by clogged carburetor jets, from sitting. It only takes a few months on non-use for the carb to become plugged with fuel varnish. Also make certain there are no air leaks between the carburetof and engine. If you are running an aftermarket air filter, rejetting to correct a lean mixture is required.
Whatever you do - do not operate the engine in this condition or you risk damage to the cylinder head and valves.
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This problem can't be the anti-diesel solenoid in the carb, that only does anything when the engine is shutting down.
Because you got poor results in the leakdown test and get 175 psi of compression (way too much), I suspect that either your intake valve is bad or misadjusted, or the key that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft is sheared off.
Check the valve lash settings and visually inspect the operation ov the valves while you're setting them. If the valves are OK remove the flywheel and check the key.

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