2006 Yamaha V Star Classic Logo

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Anonymous Posted on May 19, 2012

Will not go into gear

Just got a used bike. only 6k on it. did not have an endoresment yet so did not drive it home, but store manager drove it to my house and I took him back. when I tried to drive it into the garage, it just kept dying and then finally would not go into any gear at all. Is it the clutch or the transmission that I need to look into first.?

  • Anonymous May 20, 2012

    never mind, it's the clutch

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5 Related Answers

tim winter

  • 200 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: yzf r1 03 gear prob or?!

Sounds like bent shifting fork which is expensive. If you are not the 1st owner then you don't know how previous owner treated bike. Often sportbikes are rode hard and banged into 2nd gear which can eventually cause tranny problems like bent shifter fork. First look down by the shifter pedal and inspect that it is fastened securely to the shift rod coming out of the engine/trans case. There is a single bolt that holds the shift lever on a splined shaft and can come loose and cause problems.
If that is ok then find a local mechanic you trust....Good Luck !

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lapum0nz

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2009

SOURCE: XV1100 virago ...sputtering, dying...NOT FZR!!

1 maybe there is a diaghfram tear at your carb only 1 is funtioning and 1 block engine is running but under power
2.check your fuel line from tank to fuel filter then pump then carb
probally there is a debrie stuck in the pipe line or in your tank

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: the 2003 WR250F keeps dying.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw on the outside throat of the
carb and the air screw on the back left of the carb bore as seen from the filter. Spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

The carb has a diaphragm fuel primer pump Each time the throttle is cracked open the pump give a shot of gas. This is fine for take off but downshifting can create a rich mix. A rich mix promotes backfire. Just don't crack the throttle.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2009

SOURCE: I have a yamaha v-star 650 and am a small person.

Check out this website: http://TheClevver.com
That should fix ya.

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2009

SOURCE: where is the stator located on a 2001 26

Assuming you can get it started after charging the battery, put a volt Ohmmeter on the battery with the engine running around 3000 rpm. The reading should be around 14 volts. If it is, then the stator is fine. It is on the left side of the bike under the cover.
64d7948.gif There may be a loose / dirty connection somewhere on the bike. Remove the seat and gas tank to gain access to the wiring harness. Get a volt Ohmmeter as you may need to check continuity at some point. Start at the battery, then fuses and the wires connecting to the fuses. Inspect for burned wires, abraded wires, loose and/or dirty connections, bad connectors and loose wires. This means the mass of wires inside the headlight must also be inspected. Check the handlebar kill switch and the side stand kill switch as well. Go all the way to the ignition system. Check the key switch. Put it on "run" and check for power through the switch as you jiggle the wires. Find the bad connection and you should be able to fix it.

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