Clutch Hey guys, I replaced my clutch cable...Its adjusted out nearly all the way, and its hard as hell to pull in, and it still wont freewheel, is my clutch close enough to gone then?

Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..


. How to Adjust Clutch



Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me..
Suzuki RM80 250 89 95

while engine is not running follow the clutch cable back to its point of origin & look for any other clutch adjustments besides the the one at the clutch handle if all clutch cable adjustments are backed off & clutch is still slipping its time for a new clutch assy buy a clymers repair manual,

the clutch is dragging.
adjust the clutch cable, better is to replace it these cars
the cable goes bad inside (fray) and causes it to be the clutch from hell, get a new cable, or go nuts, saw 3 guys replace a clutch when its only the silly cable. bad. it must be set with free play.
the whole deal is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

adjust cable at both ends

The guy talking about the kind of oil to put in your Harley is brain dead. Dont listen to him an ruin your bike. Best thing to do is call a Harley dealership an talk to them about the kind of oil to use. Im not going to give you my two cents worth but dont ruin your Harley listing to that dummy he knos nothing. Never put car oil in a HARLEY

Hi, this is a clutch adjustment issue. If you have maxed out the cable adjustment at the clutch lever, you will have to make adjustments down below, where the cable contacts the clutch cover. There's a million YouTube videos that will walk you through the process. If the bike still pulls forward when the clutch lever is engaged then your cable has probably stretched past its adjustment range over the years and needs to be replaced.

If your clutch is automatic, then you need to ajust the freeplay.
On your clutch cover you have the small bolt with a screwdriver head, and a locknut.
You loosen the locknut, and then turn the adjuster bolt with a screwdriver clockwise until you feel it stop, now back it of 1/8th of a turn(counterclockwise).
While holding that adjuster bolt in position, tighten the locknut and your freeplay is adjusted.
You should notice a nice smooth shift while riding.

If your clutch is manual, then adjust your clutch cable length at the handlebar.
If the hand lever feels tight after you adjust the cable, thats because you have new clutches & springs. New ones are stiff at first.

If your clutch adjustment is fine from the start, then you have transmission problems and that would have to be inspected to be able to correctly diagnois which part is bad.

It could be just a broke shift arm.

You can try adjusting the clutch cable.
There is a lock ring where the cable meets the clutch handle.
Loosen lock ring then turn the knurled knob in or out depending on your "taste". Typically the shop guys make this adjustment far too tight with little to no play at the top first pull of the handle. Adjust to your comfort zone but try to leave at least a 1/4 inch play when you first pull the clutch handle. You can actually feel the clutch disengage as you pull the handle. Too much and the symptoms you describe appear to the problem now. If the clutch is gone it will need to be replaced and no amount of cable adjustment will help.
Good luck!

Clutch pull effort is usually alleviated by lubricating the entire cable, adjusting the clutch won't make make the clutch handle any easier to pull, usually. Adjusting the clutch is a semi-delicate procedure that I can not cover in this venue.

You either need to adjust your clutch, you have too much oil in your primary, or your throwout bearing has failed.

To adjust the clutch, follow the clutch cable until you find the rubber bellows near the down tubes of the frame. Slide the bellow up or down to gain access to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the adjuster inwards making the cable as short as possible.

Now, remove the derby cover on the outer primary cover. In the center of the clutch assembly you'll see an adjuster screw and locknut. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster clockwise until you feel a resistance. You don't want to force the adjuster screw as you'll start to release the clutch, go in just until you feel resistance. You may wish to do this several times until you get the feel for it. Once you feel the resistance, back out 1/2 to 1 full turn and lock the locknut. Reinstall the derby cover.

Now, go back to the cable adjuster and adjust the adjuster outward, making the cable longer, until you get about an 1/8" freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the locknut and reposition the bellows. This should allow your clutch to release.

If you have too much oil in your primary, it will cause your clutch to drag and make it impossible to find neutral with the engine running. The oil level should be no higher than the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike standing straight up.

If you're experiencing difficulty shifting through the rest of the gears, You may have lost a throw out bearing. To replace the throwout bearing, you'll have to pull the chrome clutch release cover off the right side of the transmission.

Good Luck
Steve