Front wheel nois

do not run 4wd (part time or locked) in dry pavement ever.
is this your first 4wd car?
its 90f here, no snow, no ice, no dirt, sand or graval
so tell first what your tries are touching, I sure cannot guess
but pavement tops the list,(on avg)

Possible that the ice formed on the linkages are breaking up , possible that the links have got tight, the pneumatics have tightened. This is extraordinary weather and the fault might clear once the mechanisms works for some time.
If however you notice there is any change or concern in the steering or movements of the wheels , then you MUST jack up the car to have a look at the front suspension/steering sections.
Hope the weather changes for the bettter.

sounds like a wheel bearin if turn to one side or the other, jack it up and see if any play in wheel from top to bottom

WELL WHAT YERA IS THIS TRUCK AND IS THE SOUND COMING FROM FRONT OR IS COMING DOWN DRIVE LINE IT COULD BE AT TRANSFER CASE THAT WHY IT GOSE AWAY WHEN IN FOUR WHEEL YOU COULD PULL THE DRIVE LINE IN FRONT AND SEE IF NOIS GOSE AWAY THEN ITS IN FRONT IF ITS THERE WITH DRIVE LINE OUT PUT IN GEAR AND IF NOIS GOSE AWAY THEN ITS THE TRANSFER CASE

their is a control board on back of the ref. this board controls most of the components to ref.i have seen alot of the ge ref. with same problem.replacing control board should solve problem but the board is very pricey.is ice coming thru door worth a couple hundred dollars?

Some is typical and some could be sign of worn u joints Have u joints inspected for loosness When in 4 wheel drive the front and read tires compete with eachother especially when turning causing a hopping or chirping. U joints are under alot of stress in tight turns and might make nois as well again check to see if worn and at the same time lube them if equiped with fittings

How old are the bearings, milage- and age-wise? It probably won't hurt to replace 'em, anyways. There are only a few things at the rear wheel that would cause a scraping sound: wheel bearings, final drive parts rubbing on the rim or swingarm or the braking hardware. Give each of those a very good checking.

warped rotor will make a noise. So will brake pads that aren't going back into the caliper like they should. I never saw a 90's NH yet that hadn't warped up the stock rotor. I put a floating rotor on my '92 NH 750 so that it wouldn't warp again and get noisy. It was also cheaper than another Honda rotor. Simple bolt-on fix just don't forget to use some Locktite! As for the caliper I've never worked on one. ,,

If it's a regular noise that gets faster as the car is rolling faster, then chock the front wheels, jack up the back of the car, spin both rear wheels and see if you get the sound.  You may be able to pin point the location this way.   Sounds like it's somewhere in the drive train and you'll be able to hear it by spinning the wheels or the driveshaft, but if not ... you will have gotten some much needed exercise jackling the car up and down ;~).  

Since you bimmer is rear wheel drive (more of a rarity these days) you have Universal Joints (U Joints)  that connect the drive shaft to the transmission and the differential.  When these go bad (100-150K or when the car is close to 10 yrs old) they will make clicking noises, later clunking noises and finally no noises or horrendous noise when they break ... but they will make noise for 10K miles first.

You might have to crawl under your baby and turn the drive shaft and pull push it at both ends to see if you can find play in the U Joints if you don't hear the noise at one of the wheels.  

If you're clost to 150K, I'm betting on Ujoints or one of those fancy German rubber center driveshaft mounts.


Good Luck
..ajm

those ball joint are bad double check it please its dangerous a noise like that can cost you alot if wheel come out hope it help fixya the post thanks pierre