Question about 1992 Suzuki DR 350 S
I have a 92 Suzuki DR350se 4 stroke. When I crack open the oil line there's oil coming out but it won't return to the oil reservoir. This bike supposed to have a dry sump. Do u know why it doesn't fill back up in the reservoir? @
Hi, Robshogs and the usual suspects are:
1. Oil tank/pan empty.
2. Oil pump not functioning.
3. Restricted/pinched oil lines or fittings.
4. Restricted oil filter.
5. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction (also results in poor engine performance).
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki DR350 Service Manual
Posted on Feb 21, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
HI, I had a 2002 gsx600f, pretty much the same bike and I let a buddy of mine ride it and he came back with the oil pan cracked, turned out he tryed to ride a few wheelies on it and upon one of the landings the weight of the bike actually cracked the oil pan, they are extremly heavy compared to other sport bikes on the market. Ive never heard of an oil pan just cracking, more then likely it was user error.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
okay theres a couple possable things that can cause this .... carbon on the valves, ran hard,not frequent oil changes, low on oil, cheap oil, spark plugg is too long , too much oil somtimes causes this,crank case breather plugged,it all depends on the way it was treated in the past or the present
i change my oil about every 15-20 hours keeps debre down and less friction on engine,remember this is not water cooled! so use the best 10-40 oil or atleast good known oil and run some seafoam through the gas,it will take that carbon off . and if you dont have a inline fuel filter u should get one they really save carbs and there only $3.00 at oreily! hope this helps <walker>
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: 1992 Suzuki rm250
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Jun 17, 2009
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