Bleeding front brakes

Front Brake Caliper: All But FLSTS/FXSTS

Remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap to be able to check the fluid level as the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper because the fluid level may rise more than the 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from the top level and you may have to remove some excess fluid if it does so. THEN loosen but do not remove both pad pins with a 12 point one quarter inch socket. THEN remove both metric caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc and pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons into their bores. THEN once the pistons have been retracted, remove the pad pins and the brake pads.

Although the front and rear brake calipers except FXSTD models, use the same exact brake pad set the FXSTD does not and the FXSTD rear pads have a vertical slot cut into the pads. Be sure NOT to substitute front and/or rear brake pads for the other on these bikes. On the right side of the vehicle the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper.

THEN install new pads into the caliper noting that the curved portion of the pad faces to the rear of the bike, and loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click from them. THEN re-attach the caliper to front fork, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long caliper mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork le, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt also to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the two pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).

THEN and whenever new pads are installed, before moving the bike pump the brakes until brake fluid pushes the caliper pistons and the pads out and verify that the pads are against the brake disc and then rotate the wheel to ensure there is not any excessive drag between the pads and the disc, check for proper fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary top it up with DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid only, install the reservoir cover and tighten its screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm).

THEN and whenever any work has been done on brakes always test the brakes at low speed before operating on a roadway or at higher speeds. THEN test brake system light and if during the road test the brakes feel spongy at all bleed the system and after obtaining a hard lever or pedal road test the bike again.

Place bike on center stand.
Jack the front of the bike to raise the front wheel off the ground. Be careful!!!
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the front fender and cross brace.
Disconnect the brake calipers from the forks.
Remove the air connections from the fork tops.
Loosen the fork leg clamp bolts on the triple tree.
Slide each leg out of the bike. Twisting while pulling often helps.
This can also be done without removing the front wheel but you will have to elevate the front of the bike another foot or so - just disconnect the air fittings and brake calipers, loosen the clamp bolts and drop the whole front assembly.

The teloscopic forks have mounts for disc brakes so you would need forks from a bike with disc brakes and the front tire with the rotor and caliper all off the same bike so it would all bolt up. Most forks are the same diameter but measure to make sure.

Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.