Fork valve when should I open the valve on top of rhe fork?

CALL A REPAIR SERVICE , I HAVE SEEN TANKS RUSTED THRU AND SEALS GONE BAD AR RHE SAME TIME

Hi paul..sounds to me you have to much fork oil in the forks mate.or you have the wrong grade oil in the fork legs...or if u have air valves on top of your fork stems.theyve been pumped up to much.but that would blow your seals..1st off.id drain the fork oil out .then replace with the correct grade oil.and oil level in each fork leg.

Hello, sounds like rhe solenoid valve is stuck open. This will keep water flowing through the humidifier even if the Furnace is off. The solenoid valve will have to be replaced.

3 measurments here
*static height-
*dynamic height-
*suspention height(extended fork length)

static height is measured with a plumb line to the ground at the center of the fork tube top with the motorcycle standing upright and no rider on on it

*dynamic height is the same except your sitting on the motorcycle.

*suspention height /extended fork length is with the front wheel off the ground and measured from the center of the front axle to the top of the fork tube.if tube cap/valve is recessed you still use the top of tube measurement but if it has a cap that screws in on top of the tube then imagine the fork cap removed (measurement stops at the top of tube itself.(most always)

must take the fork out of the t-post. then open the top cover. drain remaining oil. push down top part of the fork until it reaches to the end. put oil leveling the top. pull the top part of the fork again. spring must be inside when filling it with oil.

the clutch is a pull type, not a push type, to remove the trans you have to remove the release fork lever, to do that fist remove the clutch slave cylinder, then remove the 14mm nut tha holds the fork arm, then you can remove the trans, however reassembly is a whole nother complicated story.

hi buddy you unscrew the fork cap then pull it thrpugh a bit then below the fork cap will be the lock nut you need to hold the fork cap and lossen the locknut and it wil spin off

Your owners manual will help if you have one. There used to be drain plugs under each fork. The air valves help suspension smoothen the rides more.

The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...

while riding warm air is pressured out and to keep the suspension from getting rock hard you should open it every 2-3 rides.wait about 3 - 4 hors after finishing riding.