Replace handlebars 2003 f650cs

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

Causes for sticking are an abraded cable inner wire, a pinched cable, a cable gummed up with dirt, a gummed up twist grip assembly, an abused outside end of the twist grip and the twist grip assembly forced too deeply into the handlebar. Lube the cables with graphite lubricant only. Lock Eze is a brand name lubricant. If the cable is abraded or pinched, replace it. Please rate my answer.

If you want pictures, I'm afraid that you'll have to purchase a manual somewhere. This forum will only allow me to send a picture of 150Kb size. Replacing the throttle grips is not difficult.

First, loosen the locknuts on the throttle and idle cables at the twist grip. Adjust the adjuster barrel inwards all the way getting as much slack as possible. Now, loosen the bolts holding the front master cylinder onto the handlebars and slide it towards the center of the bars just a bit. Remove the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully lift the top portion of the switch housing and move it towards the front of the bike exposing the throttle twist grip. Work each of the cables out of the nylon wheel of the twist grip. Do not loose the barrels that go on the ends of each cable. Once you have the cables loose from the wheel, lower the lower switch housing and remove the right grip from the handlebar.

Now, take the new grip and apply a coating of white lithium grease to the wheel part and the inside of the throttle sleeve in the grip. Put a coating of grease on the handlebar end where the sleeve rides as well. Slide the throttle sleeve and grip onto the handlebars. Bring the lower switch half up and reconnect the cables to the throttle wheel. Carefully reposition the top half to the switch housing and make sure that no wires are being pinched. Install the two bolts but don't tighten. Slide the throttle grip all the way up on the handlebars and then back off about a 1/4" or so. Tighten the two bolts. Now, adjust the two cables to where they each have just a bit of slack. Turn the throttle grip to the wide open position and release it. The throttle should snap shut. If not, work with it until you get it to where it does. Once operating properly, reposition the front brake master cylinder.

Make sure your throttle operates properly. An improperly operating throttle control can cause lose of control of the bike resulting in serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

I'm sorry but I can't send a diagram via this site. I have no idea where I can get a diagram either.

But, to replace the throttle grip on your Softail, you'll see the not only are you replacing but you're replacing the throttle sleeve as well. This actually makes it easier.

To replace the grip, first loosen the throttle and idle cables as loose as you can at the adjusters close to the throttle grip. Then remove the screws that hold the two halves of the throttle switch housings together. Carefully seperate the housing halves as much as the wires will allow.

You'll see the cables coming up and connecting to the throttle sleeve. Each cable will have a ball and a ferrell on it. Work both cables loose and slide the throttle sleeve off the handlebar.

Now, lubricate the inside of the new throttle sleeve, the cable area of the throttle sleeve and the handlebar with fresh white lithium grease. Slide the throttle sleeve up on the handlebar and work the cables back into the throttle sleeve. Be careful not to lose the ferrells. They must be in there for the throttle to work properly.

Once you get the cables installed into the sleeve, put the switch housings together and install the bolts. Before tighten the bolts slide the throttle up onto the handlebar until it stops. Then back if off about 1/8 to 1/4" or so. Tighten the bolts. Readjust the cables leaving just a bit of slack in the throttle cable.

With the engine off, twist the throttle to wide open throttle and let go of the throttle grip. The throttle should snap shut. If not, loosen the cables a bit or back the throttle grip a bit further off the handlebars. The throttle grip must work correctly or serious injury or death may result. This job must be done correctly. It's not difficult just make sure it's right.

Good luck
Steve

Usually when you change the grips on the throttle side, depending on what type of replacement grips you bought, you'll be replacing the throttle sleeve as well. This means that you will be messing with the throttle and idle cables.

Loosen both cables at the adjusters as loose as they will go. Then, remove the two bolts that hold the right hand switch housing together. Carefully seperate the two halves. Do not damage the wires going to the switch. Work the throttle cable and the idle cable out of there slots in the throttle sleeve of the old grip. Be careful not to loose the brass ferrel that goes over the cable end. Lubricate the inside of the new throttle sleeve, the handlebar, and the area where the cables hook up with white lithium grease. Reassemble cables into new sleeve and reassemble the switch housing.

Once you have everything back together, adjust the throttle cable first and leave just a bit of slack in the cable. You should be able to freely "rock the throttle grip" before you feel the cable tighten up, Just a bit. Then adjust the idle cable about the same way.

Now, Turn the throttle cable to Wide Open throttle position and release it. It should "snap" shut, do this again from half and quarter throttle to make sure it works as it should. Failure to insure that the throttle operates properly can cause serious injury or death.

If you are simply replacing a grip on each side of the handlebar, use a long slender blade screwdriver or an ice pick to slide between the handlebar and the grip. Spray some WD40 in the work the grip a bit and it will break loose. Clean the throttle sleeve and handlebar off alcohol. Now, some people like to use "Grip Glue" on the new grips. Put the glue inside the grip and slide it up on the handlebar. If you put the glue on the handlebar, it will roll up in front of the grip as you slide it on to the handlebar or throttle sleeve. Make sure you "align" the two grips so they look the same before the glue sets.

Good Luck
Steve

You answered your own question. Its truly a pain in the **** to replace..the job is simple but what u have to go through is a pain to do.

1.cover the tank with towls beachtowls 2.remove switches,unbolt both ,clutch and front brake from bars,leftside grip pry under it with a flat crewdriver and spray under it with hairspray and turn on it to make it come off, right side loosen the bars and move them so when you loosen the rightside it can come right off.unbolt the bars from center of the bars

Not sure on the Harley but on dirt bikes and atvs I blow air in the ends and they come right off.Go on the same way.