Question about kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Motorcycles
I have blown 5 30 amp fuses trying to figure out whats happening. as soon as I turn the key on the main fuse is blowing. I washed the bike and it started fine I rode about 50 yard and it shut down. I found the 30 amp fuse was blown replaced it and it started. I hit the throttle a couple times and it blew again. now it is blowing as soon as I turn the key on. any ideas?
Usually a bad regulator will only cause problems with charging...
Sounds like you've got a short somewhere in the wiring...I'd start by checking the ignition switch wiring and the connections going into the fuse box.
Posted on Mar 20, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Look for a grounded wire on the ignition switch or a break in the wiring leading to the fuse. Wiring system on motorcycles are a close system with only the battery being grounded to the frame. Any loose connections or breaks in the wires that will allow the current to jump to the frame with cause you tons of fun.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
SOURCE: bad regulator?
Fuse 2 is actually the fuse from the regulator to the battery (see schematic below) - so if it's blown then you are not charging the battery. Put the correct fuse in - if it blows again, you may have a shorted regulator. Unplug both connections to the regulator: With your test meter set to 'ohms' check in turn between each of the three yellow wires in the 3-pin connector to both the red & blacks in the 4 pin connector (the two reds are already connected to each other, as are the two blacks). Also check between the reds & the blacks. None of these should readings be 'short' (zero ohms). Inspect the wiring at the three-pin connector - if the bike's harness looks charred/burned that is a sign the regulator has shorted. There is possibility it could have taken the stator with it. Incidentally, the cable that plugs into the three pin connector - that should be a replacement auxiliarry harness: the original was deemed too small gauge for the job & was replaced with the auxiliary one as a recall. You should find that cable is stand-alone from the main bike harness and you can follow it back to the stator output connection. At both ends you should find the connectors of the original harness that is 'laced' into the complete harness. If you do not find that auxiliary harness, you need to get it. You should be able to get it at no charge from Triumph if the records on your VIN show it was never supplied.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Can be "nasty problem, for it can mean DEATH, if as you attempt traffic manouvre & it blows !-(As safety precaution , & this TIP would be useful to most all Bikers>Call to friendly POLARIS ATV Dealer & ask for Automatic Re Settable 20 AMP PROTECTOR ( tHIS FITS THE 500 sPORTSMAN A T V & as far back as the 350L 2 Cycle Firebreathing A T V ()Standard Equipment )-Wire that in from POSITIVE Supply on to your loom, & attch its earth ( Negative cable to NEGATIVE > - on Your Battery!--That done, procede to your RecRegulator Unit &Examine Likely "Melting of Delrin (Nyloc, White looking plastic connector plug to terminals of Rectifier/Regulator , Test Output from Alternator., Ensure ALL Eaths have been attended properly, by Unscrewing, & Shining through the Paintwork Refit, tighten & Apply Silicone Sealant ( So that when You "Power Clean" the Motorcycle You wont be "Degrading the EARTHS again!--Now Ride!--If the Loom Loom, near steering head happens to "Short out" The POLARIS Re Settable Fuse Link & Sealed in waterproof covering, will Re Set & then You get chance to further investigate at Your workshop!!Arm yourself with Voltohmyst , or Multimeter OOR mini pointer that can sense Current Flowing, check out ALL Swithes ( Disconnect rear brake light switch & front one by way of unplugging supply leads ( Just possible that You have intermittant short in one of them!--Did You happen to note IF You were turning slightly to Left or Right when Fuse Blew?--Well, look then for "Stress areas for wiring looms, as at Steering Head Stem region, Open the Sheath with Razor Blade & attempt to pull wires apart slightly , then EXAMINE RFOR>bare leads !---With Multimeter You could slowly "ISOLATE" components & IF You had reference to WIRING CHART You then could Painstakingly TRACE EACK LEAD & ENSURE it has no "LEAKAGE "--Best Of Luck & "StayUpright" -Des.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
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