Clutch cable routing

check clutch cable put back ok, is the cable adjusted so it goes completely loose when not being used. is the clutch pushrod under casing put back wrong or mechanism that clutch cable leads to under panel replaced wrong

With the engine off, put the bike in gear and try to push it. If it rolls, your clutch is disengaged for some reason. You'll have to pull the end off of the transmission where the clutch cable goes in and check to find out what's wrong.

Good Luck
Steve

If it was OK before you fitted the new cable then you didn't do it properly. Take it off and do it again 'by the book' ensuring you routed it correctly, no tight bends & fitted it properly at the clutch thrust rod & handle bar end. With engine OFF, raise the back wheel & try engaging other gears whilst rotating the rear wheel, gears won't go in if you don't turn the wheel. No stand? push it back & forth & try gears again. All the clutch does is disconnect the engine from the gear box/back wheel. So if gears still don't go in/out you must have done something else you're not telling us about!

The cable routing guides for new bikes was only to set up the handle bars.
From memory the throttle runs down the RHSof the frame and used to run through a guide mounted off the coil through bolt.
I think the clutch goes around the steering head and also goes down the RHS

It is possible that some of the clutch plates are stuck together. When you put in new clutch plates you are supposed to soak them in oil before installing them. If they were put in dry it would cause this kind of issue. All you can do is take the clutch apart and inspect them. Coat them with oil and put them back together. On most Honda's to put the cycle in first gear you have to pull the clutch lever all the way to the handle bar. After that you can shift the bike by feathering the clutch or by only pulling the lever approximately half way. Be sure you are fully engaging the clutch when you shift the motorcycle into first gear.

Nick:
I read two contradictory things here. One the clutch is slipping and the other is it's dragging. Ok. here's something to check. Check your throwout bearing on the right side of the bike. Drain the tranny and take the clutch release cover off the transmission. The throwout beaing is a small wafer bearing about a half inch in diameter. It's held on by a miniture clip that is notorious for coming off. If during the engine swap you pull the clutch release rod outwards just a bit, the bearing could have fallen off. check this and replace if necessary.

Now if you have a stock clutch, loose the cable really loose. Break the lock nut loose in the center of the clutch assembly and turn the screw inwards until you feel the resistance. This is done AFTER you put the right side of the tranny back together. Do not force the screw. Do it several times until you get the feel of it. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw off about 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut. Adjust the cable adjuster outwards until you have 1/8" free play at the lever.

Do not overfill the primary with oil. the oil level should not be any higher than the lowest part of the clutch spring. Too much oil will cause the clutch to feel like it dragging an won't allow you to find neutral with the engine running.

Try that and see what happens. But, I'm going to tell you now, that the stock clutch is probably NOT going to hold that 127 inch engine. You're are probably going to need to beef up the clutch as well.

Good luck
Steve

The bolt you see right above where the handle turns is the handle bar clamp. And if it's been on a while you'll need to take a piece of strong wood and hold it on the bolt, when it's lossened a bit, and hit it with a hammer to fully loosen the handle bars.
Hand brakes should come with clamps to put on the hadle bars, and if you look at bikes that have hand brake, you'll see how to route the cable. The only problwem is if your bike doesn't have the part taht the brake would screw to at the wheel. Then you'll have to improvise.

Wrong size throttle cable or misadjustment. At the handlebars, I've seen some set that acceleration causes a pull of the cable, I've also seen bikes set to push the cable. Confirm this is set correctly, and that your mechanic used the correct legnth of cable.

Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.

Put both cables side by side. Are they the same length? Probably not. Go back to the dealer with both cables and ask what's going on with them. It could be that the prior owner installed a non-stock throttle then had the bike shop make a cable to fit, or the longer cable came with the throttle kit.

Your options are to get a new cable made to match the old cable or get a stock Harley throttle. If the throttle already IS a stock Harley part, then I would think the listing of what models the part would fit is incorrect. Have the guy at the parts counter try to match up cables.

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