How to adjust suspension on 1997 yamaha royal star 1300

SOURCE: 1997 Royal Star Tour Deluxe

your switch has gotten water in it, under the tumblers the connecters have been arking & caroading causing it to loose connection

SOURCE: 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 oil clutch

10w40 or 10w 50. Either will do fine.

SOURCE: Removal of factory seat on Yamaha Royal star 1300

The seat comes off with a key but I had to remove the passenger seat first unable to squeeze the main seat (what you need off) out from between tank and rear seat.Coolant resiviour and tool compartment is under there too.Good luck with that.It's the same as the ignition key. JM

Greg O'Day

• 376 Answers
• Posted on Sep 17, 2009

SOURCE: how do I check the oil level on a 2005 yamaha

You should have a site glass on the side of the motor down low along the frame rail. You will need to have the bike set strait up and down to get a reading so have a friend hold it up right for you. The oil level should be inbetween the top line and the bottom line that is on the case beside the site window.

SOURCE: i have a2000 royalstar 1300 and i need to bleed

Step (1)
Step (2)
Step (3)
Step (4)
Step (5)
Step (6)
Step (7)
Step (8)
Step (9)It's been a couple of years, maybe, and the fluid in the eye of the clutch-side reservoir looks more like mocha java than peachy chardonnay. Time for a flush-and-bleed job on the old hydraulic-clutch system?
Relax. It's a closed hydraulic system, just like the front and rear brakes. But why is the fluid brown (1)? The petroleum-based goo labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4 is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. That water eventually turns the fluid brown in a sort of plain-to-see maintenance check. Flat beer means replace the keg. Same deal here.
There are other reasons to give a hydraulic clutch some attention. Is the level in the reservoir going down quickly? Check the seal around the actuator. This guy lives in a tough environment--with the rubber O-ring that seals the slave cylinder contending with engine heat, road grime, excess chain lube and myriad other evils. Maybe the engagement point of the clutch moves erratically, or according to changes in the weather. Before you buy new clutch plates, check the actuating system.
Let's get on with it, then. You don't want more crummy DOT 3 or DOT 4 running through the system, so carefully evacuate the reservoir (2). We use those cheap nasal aspirators--parents know to look for these between the tippy cups and the Bag Balm--to **** out the goop. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid (3). Check the condition of the brake fluid you're using, too. Fluid left sitting in a previously opened container can be as contaminated as what you're trying to replace. So splurge: buy a new bottle.
Shift your attention to the slave cylinder. Sling your box-end wrench over the bleeder nipple and attach a length of clear plastic hose (4). Drop the free end of the hose in a suitable container (5).
Reach up and pump the clutch lever two or three times and then hold it to the bar (6). Crack the fitting (7); open it just enough to allow the fluid to move into the hose. It may take some time to know when to close the bleeder screw again. Unlike a brake system, there'll be no feedback at the lever to let you know when line pressure drops. Watch the hose carefully and close the bleeder an instant before you think the fluid will stop moving. If you don't, air bubbles and assorted grunge can be dragged back into the system through the bleeder.
Continue watching the hose until you see a change in the color of the fluid (8). Sometimes it's subtle--at least it will be if you haven't let this job go for too long. Keep bleeding the system in steps. Grip the clutch lever and pump two or three times, crack the bleeder screw, watch the line for bubbles, then close. Rinse and repeat for a healthy, shiny coat.
Track fluid level in the reservoir throughout the procedure. **** air into the system now and you've got to start all over again. Once all the old fluid and air bubbles are gone, fill the reservoir according to the markings (9). Because it's possible for the clutch lever to feel firm with air in the system, which will not allow the clutch to fully disengage, test your work by putting the bike in gear with the engine off. See if the clutch disengages enough to let the bike roll slightly. Wet clutches are grippy until the engine is running, but you should still be able to feel the difference. Finally, make double-sure the bleeder fitting is tight and you've cleaned up any spilled fluid because DOT 3 and DOT 4 are corrosive.
Source: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html

You can also attach a plastic tube to the bleed line and fill a cup/glass/Jar with the Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. This way you can pump the clutch slowly to rid the system of air bubbles. Make sure the reservoir does not **** air! As stated above or you will have to start the process over.

Good luck!