Question about kawasaki Motorcycles
Cant put my kx80 into gear, clutch won't engage clutch cable and lever are working fine, it's like the clutch is hanging up. the oil appears to be dirty in the case eyelet, do I replace the oil? engaging the lever the bike won't roll freely. @
Hi, Mike and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch cable adjusted too tight.
2. Pressure plate center screw adjusted too tight
3. A broken clutch rod.
4. Slave cylinder piston stuck.
5. Clutch plate missing from the clutch pack.
6. Clutch plates have worn past minimum specifications.
7. Clutch plates crystallized due to incompatible oil.
8. Broken transmission shafts or gears.
9. Rear drive belt or chain broke.
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Clutch does not engage
kx80 clutch won engage Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
Kawasaki KX60 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
1990 Kawasaki KX80 Owner Manual
Posted on Jul 25, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is a plunger type side stand switch located where side stand is bolted to the frame. road **** builds up on it and it gets stuck in.. pull out with pliers and grease it.. regards jeff
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
Maybe, and maybe not. If it is a problem with the master cylinder, then it could be bleeding back into the reservoir.
If it will not pump up and pressurize, and there are no signs of a leak, then you need to look at the master cylinder.
Posted on May 11, 2009
The clutch's plates must be stuck.Disassemble them and renew if necessary.The clutch lever should have 3mm freeplay and the spring's bolts should be tighten at 14Nm.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Pull out on the lever and push it toward the front of the bike, hard if necessary. Rock the bike while pushing. If the bike comes out of gear it should start. The bike will not start while the lever is up.
Probably need to replace the switch behind the lever. Don't test it, just replace it.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
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